Kayak Hull Design – Hard and Soft Chines – VCP vs. NDK

Thought I’d post an email I sent to a kayaking friend who’s looking to buy a new boat. I’ve owned a number of kayaks over the years and had the opportunity to paddle a good many others when working for AKT. These are just my observations – I’m a fan of a lot of kayak styles so this isn’t an argument for any one type over another:

“Good luck in Boston and when you get around to trying the Chatham 17 let me know what you think. I thought it was bigger volume and more straight running (less rocker) than I wanted when I paddled it 4-5 years ago – but I’d recently come from the Pintail aka “Pin-wheel” which is very low volume and low directional stability, so any boat would feel like a big change after that.

You mentioned the Nordkapp, which is actually a great rough water boat, and excellent at paddling straight distances in rough water. But it wouldn’t be my first choice for a “carving, surfing, edging style” of kayak for rough water, if you know what I mean. To elaborate - the Pintail and Nordkapp both have a softer chine and decent rocker (especially the Pintail and Nordkapp LV). Because of this, they have a wonderful feel in rough water – they feel very stable as the water gets chaotic because they have the rounded, soft chine design. Despite their somewhat reduced initial stability or “twitchiness” in flat water (as compared to the NDK-style boats), they become more secure to the paddler in jumbly water in part because they lack the chine.

However, when it comes to surfing in following seas, or catching waves, or putting out an aggressive edge to carve a turn – the NDK-style boats (like Chatham, Romany, Tiderace, Impex Force, etc.) are good at that because of their harder chine and flatter hull in the mid-section. These NDK-style boats have hulls that grab the water with their chine (hence they carve turns when edged) and also get “stiffer”, i.e. more secure, as you edge them. As the chine is depressed into the water when you edge, the portion of the hull’s displacement volume contained in the chine resists (pushes back) as it is submerged, thereby giving more resistance to the paddler (something about righting-moment or center of mass vs. buoyancy – check a kayak book for that). It’s all relative of course and boat width is a huge factor. But with the exception of the super narrow Greenland boats, I find that the chiney boats add support as you edge them.

By contrast, the Pintail is easy to edge and it just keeps getting easier and easier the more you edge with little resistance until it capsizes! In fact, VCP gave the Pintail more width than its sister boat the Anas Acuta specifically because it lacked a chine and needed more width to have adequate stability. So that’s what people mean when they talk about the “tenderness” or “twitchiness” of the Pintail or Nordkapp. They seem not to resist edging as much. With no chine, the act of edging doesn’t submerge much hull volume down into the water because there is no chine to submerge. BUT one can sit incredibly securely in jumbly water (clapotis) in the Pintail, noticeably more so than in the NDK boats in my opinion, because the round, chine-less hull just “gives” easily when buffeted by incoming waves hitting it in various directions. Pintail and Nordkapp feel very stable paddling through rough water or sitting in rough water. In that sense, they are very fun to mess around in rough water – but are not as good at carving and surfing.

Hope that makes sense – seems counter intuitive I know. Sorry for the long diatribe. I enjoyed writing it. Lastly, the Nordkapp LV is really a new boat, different from the classic Nordkapp – it’s somewhere in between a Pintail and Nordkapp. I thought it felt like a faster, looser Avocet. So it’s fun and fast and would be a good play boat that can also go distances if you need it to. (If you can fit under the deck that is – try it if there’s one around – although I absolutely loved the feel of the Nordkapp LV when I first tried it, when they switched to their plastic seat I found it too tight for my legs). In some respects, you might find a boat like the Avocet or Pintail most "forgiving" in rough water simply because these boats have less volume above the waterline and so less boat for wind/waves to affect. (That's my personal bias, I like smaller boats). All that aside, from what you’ve told me about how you like the Explorer, I think the Chatham 17 is probably a better boat for your needs overall than these lower volume VCP boats. Who knows, coming from your non-rockered and long-length Epic 18 you might find the Chatham 17 small!”



JIM

Solo Kayak Loading in High Wind – with the Yakima Boat Loader

When solo-loading my kayaks onto my car,  they've been blown off the roof by intense winds on two (2) occasions, once long ago and once more recently. And I’ve had a few close calls over the years too – usually prevented by soliciting the help of a nearby stranger. Yes, I am capable of learning from past mistakes, but evidently it takes me awhile to change my behavior. When the wind catches the boat, it can be a total nightmare - potential damage to the boat, the car, and my aging joints as I’ve tried desperately to stop the inevitable catastrophe unfolding before my eyes. Thankfully, thus far I’ve had no major damage that some epoxy/gelcoat can’t fix and no damage to other people’s property. So now these days when it’s very windy, I’ve been following a set procedure to prevent the boat from flying off as described below.

I’ve used the Yakima Boat Loader (photo below) for many years now, to help lift the kayak in two steps. It was the first load-assist device offered by Yakima and is simply an extra bar that sticks out from the front rack crossbar. It works fine – I’ve padded the bar with some $2 foam pipe insulation from Home Depot and I usually stick something under the stern (a rag or pfd) when I lift so asphalt doesn’t grind away at my fiberglass boat too much.

But like all other solo lift-assist “tools” (with the exception of Thule’s Hullavator which secures the boat before it’s lifted), using the Yakima Boat Loader leaves the boat in a vulnerable, unsecured position subject to the forces of the wind until you strap it down.

To prevent the boat from flying off the roof on very windy days, I now lift the bow onto the Yakima Boat Loader bar and secure it loosely with the front cradle’s webbing strap (see my sketch). This stops the boat from being blown off the bar during the next step. To be doubly safe that the boat doesn’t slide off forwards through the webbing loop, I also attach a short bungee cord with hooks from a deck line to the roof rack. Next, I lift the stern up into the rear cradle and secure the rear cradle strap while holding the boat against the wind (with my car, I stand on my rear tire and can do this entire step without removing my hands from the boat). Once this is complete, I can then take my time moving the bow over into the front cradle and then synch the front cradle strap tight. This method takes very little extra time and can be a life saver.

This description may seem like a no-brainer. I post it here for others to read in the off-chance it saves someone a real headache. If you have a better method, please comment – thanks.

Replacing the Romany Kayak Seat – Fixing a Leak Under the Seat caused by the “Grinding” Effect

The shocking truth revealed - the Grinding Effect - wear areas under the seat

Sad as I was to do it, I had to take a hack-saw to my 2008 Romany Sea Kayak yesterday because it had developed a leak under the seat. I’ve long been aware that sand/pebbles under a fiberglass seat hung from the coaming can grind away at the hull. But despite my best efforts at clearing the debris out after paddles, on my last few paddles I’d noticed the cockpit was a bit wetter than it should be and suspected a slow leak. Sure enough, when I filled the cockpit with water an area of star crazing in the gelcoat beneath one butt cheek was drip, drip, dripping.

The photos below show me hack-sawing the seat out and the very revealing amount of wear beneath the seat where it makes contact with the hull - like it had been sanded down by a grinder – amazing. My intention is to use Epoxy on the inside to fix the leak, then refinish the gelcoat on the outside hull. In the past, I’ve done all my repairs with polyester resin since that’s what most fiberglass sea kayaks are made with (both for laminating the fiberglass layers and in the outer shell of gelcoat). Years ago I also worked extensively with MAS Epoxy resin when building a wooden kayak and had good results. Epoxy resin is said to be more flexible and water tight than polyester resin but may not provide the same adhesion to the existing polyester gelcoat on my boat (?). I have a few small repair packs of West System epoxy that are cheap and convenient so will give that a go this time. Update: Epoxy is sticky stuff and is doing just fine in the repair patches, and the layer of polyester gelcoat I put on the outer hull side seems fine against the epoxy on the inside. In other words, for basic fiberglass kayak repairs, epoxy is all I'll likely use in the future. Nick Shade, a CT boatbuilder I know, once said using epoxy exclusively for all fiberglass or carbon kayaks is fine, and for repair of the gelcoat outer surface he suggested simply using a marine polyurethane paint, no need to mess with MEK catalyst. Haven't tried that yet.

Valley and SKUK have moved away from hung kayak seats in recent years – which at first I thought was a move simply to save money – cheaper to make one standard seat that can be installed in every kayak model they make. But I now realize the new seats do remedy this fatal flaw – the grinding effect on the hull. The new seats have a wide bottom flange and foam underpad to prevent wear underneath.

Before you go ripping out your own kayak seat – some boats with seats hung/integral to the coaming have enough clearance to prevent the grinding effect. My Valley Pintail had a hung seat with an ocean cockpit that never developed a leak despite being a 14 year-old boat when I sold it. The difference was that it had a substantial clearance (1 or 2 inches) between the bottom of the seat and the hull, and two big pieces of rigid foam beneath.

Aside from the grinding effect, I've enjoyed the hung fiberglass seats on all my kayaks for their form and function – the hip plates and seat are one integrated unit (sometimes integral to the coaming too) making a nice smooth finish that is comfortable, you can slide in and out easily, and the smooth surfaces won’t catch on clothing or tear your drysuit.

Hack-saw to cut out seat

sanding cheek plates to retain backband

The culprit - pit in center of wear area





I'll be replacing the seat with foam initially, but may install Nigel's newer "High Performance Seat" eventually. I've tried his new seats and they are great, more comfortable than most others out there.

An "In-Progress" Coastal Sea Kayaking Guide and Map to Long Island, NY - Places I've Paddled

View Jim's Long Island Sea Kayaking Locations in a larger map


Icons on the map show places I've paddled on Long Island, mostly coastal. Although I don't live on Long Island (surprising now that I look at my map), the Long Island coast has a different, exposed feel to it that is a nice diversion from the rocky shoreline of mainland NY/CT I typically paddle. I've  included some notes on parking fees. Hope to expand on this post with updates to fill in some of the empty spaces on the map I’ve yet to paddle, including: Peconic River; Connetquot River; Carmen’s River; Gardiner’s Island.  Stay tuned...


1. Breezy Point – good place to catch surf and feel the ocean swell near NYC, easy put-in off Belt Pkwy at Plum Beach parking lot, free parking.

2. East Rockaway Inlet – launch at Silver Point County Point (in off-season no fee and few people). Been there only once, hope to return.

3. Buttermilk Channel and Valentino Park, Brooklyn - launch from Liberty State Park (NJ), paddle past the Battery - check out the current east of Governor’s Island and land in Red Hook, Brooklyn. Atlantic Kayak Tours runs this trip - a favorite of mine in NY Harbor. Link to photos.

4. Throgs Neck Bridge – I've crossed over from the mainland from City Island (to east) or Soundview Avenue (to west) - so not technically a real LI kayak trip that way, but I'm told there's a launch in the park at the Long Island side of the bridge too. Urban kayaking at its best.

5. Manhasset Bay – in the off-season, I launch from New Rochelle/City Island and cross the sound to reach this bay (3+ miles). If launching from LI, Manorhaven Town Park has a nice kayak launch on the Bay that I've inspected, free parking. Nice area with sandy cliffs – you immediately see the difference from the rocky shores of Westchester.

6. Glen Cove Shoreline – big public beach and boat launch at Tappan Beach off Shore Road (parking fee in season) or Garvey’s Point Rd Boat Launch (free parking) or East Beach Drive beach (parking fee in season) or Creek Beach in Bayville (parking fee in season). Welwyn Preserve shoreline, Frost Creek Tidal Creek – very nice paddling. See link to photos and to a more in-depth map of this area: Oyster Bay Kayak Launch Map.  Oyster Bay Kayak Launch Map

7. Jones Inlet – launch from Town Marina (free) just west of Loop Parkway. Head out inlet to SW, look for fun/friendly surf about ½ mile offshore. My most frequent venue for paddling ocean surf - photos from a recent trip.

8. Oyster Bay – launch at Theodore Roosevelt Park (south) or Center Island Village Park (north) - both free to park when I visited – Mill Neck Marsh a great spot to paddle.  Also you can easily circumnavigate the Centre Island peninsula with a short portage over Centre Island Rd back to the Park's parking lot. See link to photos and to my detailed map of this area: Oyster Bay Kayak Launch Map.

9. Fire Island Inlet – small parking area under the loop of Robert Moses Causeway bridge (north side) or off Oak Beach Rd (to south). Both launches require huffing it down some rip-rap unfortunately. Nice rip current and gentle surf at end of barrier beach overlap. Significant boat traffic to watch for.

10. Lloyd Harbor and Caumsett State Park – peninsula lends itself to a circumnavigation, easy ½ day paddle, including a very short portage. Just don’t park on West Neck Rd or you’ll get a ticket like I did. The nearby State Park or Target Rock Federal Wildlife Refuge have parking, then walk back to your boat. Hobart Beach on Eatons Neck looks to be a good launch but I’ve not done it yet.

11. Sunken Meadow State Park and Nissequogue River – kayak launch at Nissequogue State Park or Old Dock Road (parking fee for both). Great river trip upstream to public launch at W. Jericho Tpk. Link to my photos and outfitter info here.

12. Port Jefferson – launch at road by McAllister County Park (no parking there sadly/amazingly) so you  risk a ticket for onstreet parking unless you sweet-talk a policeman as I did. Nice bay and exposed spit of sand with Port Jeff ferry coming by. Better places to park at southern end of harbor I expect.

13. Moriches Inlet – launch at end of Bay Ave or Atlantic Avenue – paddle southwards past islands on the way to the inlet, some of the bumpier water when ebb meets incoming waves. Link to photos.

14. Shinnecock Inlet – public "Road I" just west of inlet free off-season parking, short paddle from there to the narrowest LI barrier beach inlet with current that moves fast (park-and-play at max ebb).

15. Shelter Island north – launch from parking lot and beach at end of Manhasset Ave (free off season). Access to the north shore of Shelter Island or head east to the lighthouse and beach extending from Orient Beach State Park.

16. Shelter Island south – launch from the ferry dock at South Ferry Road in Northport (free but crowded). Fun currents and pristine shores of Smith Cove.

17. Three-Mile Harbor – launch from Maidstone Park (free), small harbor to poke around in. Due to its narrow inlet, there can be fun waves to play in at the inlet with an incoming, north wind.

18. Orient Beach State Park and Plum Gut – parking lot at Ferry Terminal (always crowded) or Orient Beach State Park (preferred but small fee in season). The Race flows off Orient Point (see photo), with incoming swell at max ebb there can be fun rides by the lighthouse or close to Plum Island (experienced paddlers only). The bayside (north side) of Orient Beach State Park is activily used by kayaks for good reason - beautiful place to paddle.

19. Acabonack Harbor – launch from Gerard Drive (free) on north side of inlet to harbor. Beautiful tidal marsh and good access to Gardiners Bay. Preferred launch for a trip out to Gardiners Island.

20. Napeague Harbor – launch off Lazy Point Road (free but avoid no-parking signs), wide open space with few boaters, protected lands around, solitude and wildlife. See some photos of a recent trip.

21. Montauk Harbor – launch at Gosman’s Dock, end of Flamingo Ave (free but iffy/crowded). Access to ocean swells or explore Montauk Lake and the active fishing community. Among my favorite places to paddle. Link to my montauk post.

22. Montauk Point – launch from 4x4 access near lighthouse (State Park Fee) or paddle from Ditch Plains (Town Parking Permit  needed in season) or Camp Hero (Seasonal Fishing Permit to access water). Consistent line of NW waves to ride at north side of light. Exposed and wonderful, skilled paddlers only.

23. New "Old" Inlet - As a result of Hurricane Sandy (10/2012), the historic inlet here reopened. You can paddle west from Smith Point County Park to here. Amazing display of nature's power. Link to my post on "Old" Inlet.

24. Little Gull Island - Paddling northeast from Orient Point, past Plum Island (Federally-owned NO LANDING) one passes Great Gull Island (again NO LANDING as it is owned by the AMNH as an endangered bird habitat) you eventually reach Little Gull Island – where you CAN land.  Great trip – you can see seals our here in the Springtime.  Photo from a 2009 trip here. 

25. Eatons Neck - Free parking (it seems) at Hobart Beach (when I was there in September no problem)  - although most of the North Shore requires Town Parking Permits so check. Nice coastline up to the north towards the Coast Guard Station.
 

Breezy Day at Napeague Harbor



Portage by Hither Hills State Park

Circumnavigated Hicks Island yesterday which forms the outer/northern edge of Napeague Harbor - former site of a fish processing facility (ruins still visible) now used as nesting site by least terns (Sternula antillarum) so shoreline is fenced/posted for protection by USFWS. Beautiful place to paddle. Harbor is a very pristine habitat, never closed to shellfishing due to good water quality. Now often used by kite-boarders on windy days. Photos of fixed fish nets used to corral fish as they cruise the shoreline and common tern on floating oyster frames.

Link to nice piece about Napeague from the East Hampton Star in 2011 here: The Gems of Napeague.






Fish Net

Tern on boxes used to raise oysters

Tiderace Xtra Kayak Review



Randy with boats, Hudson and NJ skyline in background

6/16/12
This weekend I had the opportunity to demo the brand-new Tiderace "Xtra" sea kayak down in NYC at the  New York Kayak Company owned and operated by Randy Hendrikson. The Xtra was the boat I made the trip for, but I was also able to demo two other Tiderace boats - the Xcape-S and the Xcite. In short, the Tiderace boats are great and I'm a fan.

Tiderace Xtra - take-home points:

• the cockpit will fit an average sized adult just fine, it is not a larger-person specific cockpit.
• the boat is very turny/maneuverable at my weight (175 lbs), somewhat more so than my current 16' boat (a standard Romany), it has a fun feel (see pronounced rocker in photo above).
• the hull is wide and high volume, making the boat very buoyant at my weight which adds to its easy turning and edging, but also adds to its initial stability.
• paddlers of various sizes should try the boat.
• specs: 16.5 ft length, 22.3 inches width, 13.2 inches depth.

About me: I've been sea kayaking since the mid-90's and have come to prefer shorter sea kayaks for poking along the shore and messing about in surf and bumpy water. I'm 5'10, 175 lbs, and size 10 feet.

There is some conflicting information out there on the Xtra based on the few reviews and descriptions of the boat I've found online. The Tiderace website lists its minimum paddler weight as 80 kg (175 lbs), but other sources say it is suitable for smaller paddlers. At 175 lbs, I'm at the bottom end of the listed weight range for the Xtra. But I've long enjoyed the feel of larger volume boats for their buoyancy and liveliness. Trouble is, the cockpits of bigger boats sometimes provide too much space and poor contact points. My current boat is small at 16 feet. It serves me fine size wise, but sometimes I wish it had more overall hull volume to feel more lively and more cockpit deck height to improve forward paddling efficiency and knee comfort.

My thoughts on proper boat size have evolved over the years. I used to prefer small volume cockpits, snug hips, firm low back band - the "locked in" feel. But after years of paddling, some back trouble, and a day paddling a surf ski, I've been experimenting with set-ups and boats providing more room in the cockpit. I find now that more looseness in the seat and knees helps forward paddling - and let's face it, that's 90% of sea kayaking - forward paddling. Why have a boat set up tight for the bumpy play spot when you're only paddling in such conditions 10% of the time?

I've been intrigued by the Tiderace boats since I paddled the Xcite a few years back. It was a bit of a revelation to me in the comfort and performance provided by an ergonomically designed cockpit. At the time, I wasn't in the market for an overall "do everything" kayak like the Xcite - I was looking to see what else was out there in the short, rock-gardening and surfing sea kayak market. I also tried the Xtreme a year or so ago - a big water surf boat - and really enjoyed it (see my review elsewhere on this blog). But my personal bias for smaller boats really got me intrigued when I saw the recent release of a shorter boat by Tiderace called the Xtra. It's about time - I've been waiting for a Tiderace line similar to the day/play boats I've enjoyed like the Avocet, Romany, Pintail, and Delphin but with the ergonomic Tiderace cockpit.

My fear was that the Xtra would be a big person's boat and I'd know this immediately upon sitting in it. I was happily surprised - the cockpit fit me just fine. The seat width is similar to the other two boats I demoed (Xcite and Xcape-S) and the deck height only a slight bit higher. In a word - it fit me perfectly and I'm not a big guy. Like all the Tiderace boats, the thigh hooks are shaped to provide nice contact points and are more centered (closer together) and higher than many boats. This allows a higher and more centered knee position. Far from being a problem, this higher deck height is a benefit. You're not "reaching" up to make contact with the deck - just set the footpegs properly and you're there. Higher knees allows for more paddling power, torso rotation, and comfort. More kayaks should have cockpit size/shape like the Xtra.

Xtra profile

Nice deck graphics, Empire State in view

I took the Xtra north on the Hudson against some 2 knot current, messed about around a few pilings and jetties, even managed to catch a few waves when the Circle Line tourist boat went by. I enjoyed the boat very much. It has very hard chines - most like the Xtreme than the other models. And the hull is wide in the mid-section. At my weight with no gear, the bow/stern were very loose which made the boat turny. A heavier paddler would probably experience more straight-line performance from the boat if that's what they are looking for. The hull shape and volume make the boat responsive, not twitchy, but more quick to edge than my current boat. But the width (1" wider than my current boat) provides good support the more you edge. I'd say its secondary stability is stiffer than the Xcite and perhaps equal to the Xcape-S. Speed is not much of a factor for me, but the Xtra seemed to move right along, had to push it a few times to fight the current near the jetties. The other boats I tried (Xcape-S and Xcite) seemed a bit quicker based on my limited time in them. Very easy to catch waves in the Xtra and very maneuverable in tight corners - all things I like.

Of all the Tiderace boats I've tried thus far, the Xtra is the one that checks off the most categories I'm personally looking for. Maneuverable, comfortable, and fun. If I could tailor the boat to me, I might reduce its hull volume a bit but leave the cockpit room and deck height completely as-is. I'm used to a more rounded hull chine, so might prefer some softening there too - but then the trade off would be less of a loose, "on-off" edging response that is fun in the current boat. If Tiderace comes out with a slightly smaller volume Xtra I'd be interested to try it, but my sense is that any substantial reduction in hull volume or cockpit room would put it in the category of a small-person's boat rather than an average sized person's boat.

Cockpit showing thigh hook and seat/coaming flange

Outfitting of the Tiderace boats has been written about before - they're all top of the line, stiff hulls, superb finish, adjustable seat (fore/aft), excellent hatches, etc. The one extra thing I noticed yesterday is that the coaming of all their boats has a gradual curve allowing the rand of the sprayskirt to fit snug. Some kayaks have sharp curves or indents to accommodate the keyhole which can compromise the water tightness of the skirt.

Xcape-S: This boat is similar to my current boat the Romany in some ways - a softer chine and friendly (familiar) feel. It is part of Tiderace's more standard kayak line made for a wide range of paddlers. I liked it a lot - surfed some swell as it came rumbling in by Pier 40 amongst the many Downtown Boathouse free kayak paddlers that share the Pier with New York Kayak Company. (Hudson River Park has created a real renaissance on the River, subject for another post for sure). The Xcape-S seemed to have less rocker and longer length than my Romany. The seat is the same width as the Xtra but the front deck height is lower. I prefer the higher deck height of the Xtra.

Xcite: I'd paddled this boat before, trying it again confirmed to me that it fits a person of my size well - I remember feeling at home in the cockpit immediately. It's Tiderace's most all-around boat for the average-sized experienced paddler, very responsive to edging, decent speed, turns and surfs nicely. It runs straighter and with more speed than the Xtra. For me, it would be a tough choice between the Xcite and the Xtra for a fun sea kayak for all around use. I also briefly tried the Xcite-S, which I found did not suit me. The cockpit was too tight and the boat felt twitchy for my weight and weight distribution. A smaller/lighter paddler would find it entirely different I'm sure.

Seeing all the offerings from Tiderace Kayaks and talking with Randy it's clear to me that Aled Williams (the founder of Tiderace Kayaks) has created a unique entity in the paddling scene. They've put out a lot of different boats and I expect more designs still to come. Why so many? Is it over saturation? I don't think so. In the competitive world of top-end sea kayaks most companies come up with a limited number of designs. By contrast, in a relatively short period Tiderace has put out many disparate boats - for the average paddler, for the big water fanatic, for the fitness racer, for big/small paddlers. The reason is clearly that differences in paddler size, experience and focus require different boats to suit the whole paddling community. The Tiderace boats are not cheap. They're made to high standards. If one wants a cheaper boat, there are many companies that create perfectly fine kayaks for less money which are more likely to be a "vanilla" boat meeting a sweet-spot that the manufacturer feels suits most paddlers. Tiderace has gone a different route, and the result is a larger quiver of boats. It's an interesting business model and one I hope continues because I think it has allowed experimentation in design that can advance the sport of sea kayaking.

One last word about NY Kayak Company - Randy runs a great shop with top-end gear and boats. He's a very experienced paddler himself and it would be hard to find a more helpful, patient, and informative kayak retailer. I bought my first drysuit from him when he operated out of a nearby loft - now his shop is ideally located on the Hudson and his business has matured into a top-of-the-line center for instruction, trips and retail. Give him a call about the Tiderace boats, he's very happy to talk.

Bring back the 5.10 Nemo Highs!

On the subject of “why’d they stop making those?”, I’ve long lamented Five-Ten’s decision to stop making what I think were the best kayaking footwear I’ve owned – the Five-Ten Nemo High. In short – the Nemo Highs had excellent grip on rocks when wet or underwater because the rubber was flexible and grippy – something to do with the type of rubber they used. The sole wasn’t too thick to be cumbersome inside the boat, but thick enough that walking on dry land was a pleasure. The one cross-strap with buckle was an essential component that kept the boot on securely and was easy to use. And the high tops and padded ankle patch protected my ankles from underwater rocks and kept sand from getting inside.

I’d struggled with some poor footwear choices during my first few years of sea kayaking. Teva Sandals worked OK until in the muddy bottom of Norwalk Harbor I managed to stick a fishing hook into the bottom of my foot. I also had some basic neoprene booties which flopped around offering no support. Then I got the Five-Ten Nemo Highs – awesome shoes.

After the Nemo Highs finally wore out (several blissful years of podiatric joy), I got a pair of NRS’s Attack Shoes. While superficially similar to the Nemo’s, these had a stiffer rubber/plastic sole that was not nearly as grippy on rocky surfaces. The front/back Velcro/clip straps were a pain to deal with (why not one simple buckle strap?). And, the drain holes in the bottom were a bit of a mystery. (In my opinion, the soles of boating shoes should NOT have holes in them when first purchased!). I moved on to some Merrill water shoes – basically a sneaker with mesh to drain. These worked well, but the thicker sole was more than I wanted inside the boat dealing with the foot pegs. Plus, the lack of an upper part meant frequent nicks and cuts to my unprotected ankles by submerged rocks, etc. Eventually I purchased NRS’s Cross 4 Wetshoe – basically a simple neoprene bootie with one Velcro strap, which I use at the moment. They are not nearly as grippy on slippery surfaces as the Nemo, have less support for walking on land. But they're OK, and do offer more warmth for winter paddling.

Some other user comments on the Nemo Highs I found on the web:

“Too bad they stopped making them. Glad I bought an extra pair before that happened.”

“I had a pair of these a few years ago and they were the best boating shoes I've owned to date. The simple buckle is secure and easy to use, the neoprene ankle collar keeps out dirt, the burly uppers are durable and drain easily. Most importantly, these shoes grip, the sticky rubber is good on smooth wet rock, whilst the healthy tread provides bite on mud and wet grass.”

So WHY did Five-Ten discontinue them…? Perhaps to concentrate on their main business which is rock climbing shoes. Still, with a winner like the Nemo High, bringing it back would capture the ever expanding kayaking market – get the word out and maybe they’ll do it!

Shoulder Injury Kayaking

No posts for awhile (I have at least one confirmed person who's read my posts, hence this notification!) - I've been out of commission (no paddling) since late September 2011 when I injured my left shoulder during a rolling exercise while taking a kayaking class (thankfully in the afternoon of the last day so it wasn't a complete bust). That's right, not even paddling - just doing a rolling exercise at the direction of the instructor! Would have preferred to have injured it riding a massive wave or shooting some rapids! Word to the wise - keep your hands in front of your body while paddling (within the "box" or safety zone) and don't do anything your heart-and-mind are telling you is a risky maneuver.  Not worth it - physical therapy for rotator cuff tears is no fun, progress can be exceedingly slow, and the surgery option looms in the near future.  My kayaks and equipment gathering dust...  Surgeon tells me I have a footprint tear (pulled away from bone) of my rotator cuff tendon and a torn labrum (cartilage that lines the shoulder socket).  I knew something was wrong immediately - upon injury, after the sharp pain subsided, my arm was like a dead weight. Had to drive home with one hand on the steering wheel. Surgery may involve drilling anchors into bone to re-attach tendon and apparently long rehab.  Keep an eye out for a some used kayaks for sale in the springtime!....(kidding) we'll see how this goes.