Tuesday, March 31, 2020

Plastic Shrink-Wrapping Boats for Winter Storage – Adverse Effects on Environment


Plastic shrink-wrap on a plastic kayak…really? (see photo). When people start covering cheap-plastic with more plastic, it’s surely a sign that shrink-wrapping is getting out of hand!  

UNBELIEVABLE!?  Plastic shrink-wrap winter storage layer over a cheap, plastic recreational kayak (“banana-boat” type kayak).   What a waste….  (City of Rye NY Municipal Boat Basin, March 26, 2020)

Covering boats with heat-shrink LDPE (low-density polyethylene) film for winter storage has caught on quickly in recent years – now it seems every boat in the marina is shrink-wrapped. The mountain of plastic waste this generates every season is scandalous. But is shrink-wrapping boats for winter storage even necessary?  I did a little research on the topic and consolidated what I found below.

   1. The Problem:

The overarching problem of plastic waste is a huge issue having larger societal and ecological consequences.  This blog post here is focused solely on the issue of boat shrink-wrap plastic.  At present, most of this shrink-wrap material is sent to landfills or is incinerated. It is made from LDPE, combined with additives to provide UV resistance and other properties. As discussed below, very little of this material is recycled. The average boat requires 15 lbs of shrink-wrap each season, multiplied by the 13 million registered boats in the United States it’s easy to see how disposal of shrink wrap could cause a landfill crisis. (1)  Incineration of LDPE and other plastics causes its own problems – principally the release of heavy metals, organic pollutants, and other toxins into the air and in incinerator ash residue, which itself must be landfilled. (2) And lastly, plastic constitutes the predominant form of marine debris. (3)  As kayakers, we all see more and more plastic (including boat-wrap) littering the shores.


 2. Is Shrink-Wrapping Boats Even Necessary?:

Retailers and manufacturers of boat shrink-wrap say the protective film is necessary to keep rain/snow out of your boat and to minimize UV sun damage when the boat is in storage for the winter. If you dig deeper though, you’ll find that this isn’t the whole story.

Firstly, the cost of wrapping your boat annually is not cheap. I’ve seen local prices range from $15-25 per foot – starting at $450 flat rate for boats 25’ or under. That’s every year.  By comparison, a well-maintained canvas cover can last 20 years and many are made from cotton duck fabric so are ultimately biodegradable. Though more expensive to purchase initially (roughly 2x/3x cost of disposable LDPE wrap), the extra up-front cost of a canvas boat cover can be quickly recouped in just a few years. (4, 5)

After reading many online sources, it appears shrink-wrapping your boat may actually be worse than doing nothing when it comes to mold. The sun’s radiation will heat up any water trapped on/in the boat beneath the plastic wrap cover.  Temperatures under the cover will swing up by day causing evaporation (increased humidity) and drop down at night causing condensation. The result – MOLD. Now you’ve got another problem so must use fungicides or other mold-preventives (sprays, heaters, desiccants, etc.). (6)    Alternatives, like keeping a boat under a more open/breathable cover (like canvas) or under the roof of a garage can provide more air-flow and prevent humidity and mold problems.

Another alternative to shrink-wrap is to have no cover at all. (How's that for a concept). UV damage can be minimized by spraying a UV protectant (303 etc.) on rubber parts a few times in the off-season and by applying a protective coating of wax on the hull before storage. If that’s too much work, then do nothing – wait until the boat's finish fades then polish/restore any oxidized gelcoat once every 20 years – remember, gelcoat has UV inhibitors in it so resists oxidation!   Isn’t restoring a boat hull with some polish and a power buffer once every 20 years a better solution than adding 300 lbs of plastic waste to landfills (15 lbs/year x 20 years)?


     3. Recycling:

While better than landfilling, recycling LDPE shrink wrap is a mixed bag.

The EPA estimates that only 6.2% of LDPE (recycling number 4) is recycled in the United States. (7) That’s for LDPE overall – most of which is the rigid kind, used in food containers, etc. The plastic film type of LDPE is the material used in plastic grocery bags and is also the class of plastic used for shrink-wrap boat covers. Recycling of these thin, flexible LDPE films presents added difficulties over the more rigid type. These films must be separated from the general plastic recycling waste stream because they require special machines that will not become clogged during the milling process. Also, LDPE films are often contaminated (dirty) and must be cleaned before they can be recycled, adding  time and energy to the process, and accounting for the very low percentage of LDPE recycling worldwide. (8) 

Even if recycled, LDPE plastic is not “closed-loop” recycling. That is, it cannot be recycled into the same product, over and over. It is “recycled”, or more accurately “converted”, into a different final-use product, like composite lumber or carpet material. (9) This is partly due to the additives in plastic – UV inhibitors, flame retardants, coloring agents, etc. – that act as contaminants and prevent it from being reused in the same form.  Also, plastic can only be recycled a few times before its quality decreases to the point where it can no longer be used. Typically additional virgin material is added during the recycling process in order to “upgrade” the quality of the plastic. (10, 11)  

By comparison, aluminum and glass are “closed-loop” recyclable materials – they can be made over-and-over into new bottles and cans without losing quality or purity. Unlike plastic recycling, there’s no need to add virgin material in the glass/aluminum recycling process. (12)  As an aside, I’ve personally tried to eliminate all single-use plastic – bottles, bags, cutlery, etc. – and only use aluminum cans when buying beverages and fabric grocery bags when shopping, surprisingly easy things to do.

At present the cost of boat shrink-wrap disposal is largely borne by taxpayers in the form of garbage hauling, landfilling, etc. While some businesses offer prepaid shipping bags that can be used to send boat shrink wrap in the mail for recycling (“Dr. Shrink” sells a prepaid shipping bag for $50), a marina-based collection/hauling operation is clearly preferred to reduce costs and to avoid the need for additional materials to wrap/mail the waste! (4, 13)  Westchester County’s Boat Wrap Recycling program collects boat-wrap if your marina participates. (14)  Now, whether “recycled” boat wrap plastic is ultimately processed into recycled products depends on the status of the world’s recycling market at the time it is collected.  If the market is uneconomical (as it is now for many plastics), this material will be landfilled or burned... (15)  Some have advocated for an upfront “product stewardship” deposit to address the full cost of plastic boat wrap over its life cycle, thereby shifting recycling costs from municipalities to the consumers who directly benefit from the product. No such regulations currently exist in New York that I’m aware of.

So that’s it – something to think about and something for boaters to work towards eliminating if possible.  It should be noted that many kayaks are also made from LDPE and should also be recycled when their useful life has ended. And perhaps old fiberglass boats can be milled into fibers and reused.  In my view, the difference between the plastic/fiberglass material used to make boats themselves and the plastic shrink-wrap used to cover them is that shrink-wrap covers are essentially single-use items for which there are alternatives. 

For more - check out this recent PBS documentary, Frontline: Plastic Wars, which delves into the conundrum of recycling plastic:  https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/frontline/film/plastic-wars/

References:
1: https://www.boattrader.com/resources/shrink-wrap-recycling-easier-think/
2: http://theconversation.com/why-municipal-waste-to-energy-incineration-is-not-the-answer-to-nzs-plastic-waste-crisis-126824
6: https://tomdwelsh.com/2015/10/08/shrink-wrap-boat-storage-dangers-and-long-term-effects/
7: https://millerrecycling.com/ldpe-out-of-landfills
8: https://www.plasticexpert.co.uk/plastic-recycling/ldpe-recycling-plastic/
9: https://www.dec.ny.gov/chemical/8817.html
11: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S030438941730763X
15: https://environment.westchestergov.com/residents/212-news-events/2582-boat-wrap-recycling-expands-to-hudson


Tuesday, March 10, 2020

Edging a Sea Kayak When Surfing - with Illustrations

One of my “Aha!” moments when learning to surf waves in a sea kayak was the realization that edging on the same side as your paddle during a stern rudder stroke is less effective (actually ineffective) in turning the boat.

As a kayak catches a wave and begins to move forward and "plane" on that wave, the bow will invariably begin to turn one way or the other. Without correcting this the kayak will eventually broach resulting in a side-surf or coming off the wave (wave passes underneath).  Using the stern rudder stroke and edging the kayak is necessary to get the kayak back on track when surfing.

Under regular paddling (non-surfing), the typical way to improve the effectiveness of a stern rudder stroke is to edge the kayak on the same side that you placed the paddle. [e.g., To Turn Left - Rudder On Left Side - Edge on Left Side].  Edging this way on the stroke-side is more natural for the body and quickens the turn by shortening the kayak’s waterline length. Doing it this way also allows for a quick transition to a low brace turn.

However, edging on the paddle side won’t work when surfing if your intent is to stay on the wave. If you edge on the same side as your paddle in the stern rudder stroke, two bad things happen: First, your edge will present more of the boat’s hull to the wave face - the flat underside portion of the hull in contact with the wave. This will increase the rotational force that has already begun to turn the kayak into a broach. (badSecond, the chine portion of the kayak hull has a curve to it from bow-to-stern, that will naturally act to turn the boat to the left when edged on the right and vice-versa.  Using this natural tendency of the hull to turn away from the side it's edged on is super helpful when fighting the broach. But if you edge on your paddle side you'll be edging on the down-slope side of the wave, and the curve of the kayak hull will very rapidly accelerate the broach that has begun. (bad)

So, edging the kayak on the OPPOSITE side from your paddle during a stern rudder stroke when surfing is much more effective in keeping the boat running straight and on the wave. It provides a double-whammy - the paddle and the edging work together. As your kayak begins to turn or broach, put the stern rudder stroke in on the down-wave side (trough side) but edge on the up-wave side (crest or peak side).   NOTE, doing it this way can be challenging to execute without practice. You may feel off-balance and unstable at first – your mind is telling you, “Don’t do that, if I edge on the side without a paddle I won’t have any support!?”  You must ignore that warning message from your brain, curl your torso/head away from the edge side to stay balanced (it's an "edge" after all, not a "lean"), and keep the paddle blade in the water.  Try it on some small waves at first to build muscle-memory.

I’ve done my best to sketch some illustrations of this (below) that I hope are clear enough.

Stern Rudder Stroke - Viewed from Stern
Stern Rudder Stroke - Viewed from Stern

CLICK TO ENLARGE
Old grainy photo of mine taken while surfing, pre-smartphone etc.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

CLICK TO ENLARGE




Wednesday, March 4, 2020

"Commando" Sea Kayak Launch Sites Map - Westchester and Fairfield Counties


WATER ACCESS POINTS FOR PADDLING (or lack thereof)...

LAUNCH SITES MAP - just places I've put my sea kayak in Long Island Sound over the years, in Westchester County NY and Fairfield County CT, beginning in the early 90's when "commando-launching" for solo paddling (not in groups) was perhaps easier to do. I was only stopped from launching a few times - usually easy to jump in the water and zoom off when solo. Launch spots on this map (LINK TO MAP) mainly for fun to show, not places I personally "sanction" or officially recommend. Enjoy.

Actual sign at Flint Park, Larchmont NY... :-( 















Other great resources for launch sites in Westchester and Connecticut are maps/lists from KALM and CONNYAK, links below. And additionally a great one from SKSA for Long Island kayak launch sites:

KALM Launch Sites

CONNYAK Launch Sites

SKSA Launch Sites