Lee-cocking in Big Winds

 

Figure 1. Weather-cocking vs. Lee-cocking

Yes, lee-cocking (turning downwind) in beam winds is a thing.  Some kayakers haven't experienced lee-cocking since most sea kayaks are designed to reliably do the opposite - weather-cock (turn towards or into the wind) to varying degrees.  Kayaks are made to weather-cock because this effect of turning into the wind can be countered by dropping a skeg located at the stern of the boat.  In this way, paddlers can keep their boats going straight in a range of conditions.  No wind – minimal use of the skeg. Increasing wind – increasing amount of skeg deployed.

I’ve owned kayaks that weather-cock a lot and those that only do so when winds pick up. Generally speaking, kayaks with more “rocker” (the amount of curvature in the bottom of the hull along its length from bow to stern) weather-cock more.  My Valley Pintail and Avocet sea kayaks were in the “weather cocks a lot” category, and sure enough had a lot of rocker.  My NDK Explorer and Romany were in the “weather cocks a little” category, and in truth I rarely used the skegs in these two boats since a little edging was typically all that was needed to stay on course in winds. [By the way, if your kayak has a foot-operated rudder, the tendency of its hull to weather-cock or lee-cock is immaterial - a rudder can make any boat go in any direction. But beware, boats designed to be used with a rudder may be hard to keep straight without it (interesting link about removing a rudder on a ruddered boat).]

Kayaks that don’t weather cock strongly can sometimes do the opposite when wind and waves get big – they Lee-Cock.  This effect cannot be corrected with a skeg, deploying a skeg will just increase the lee-cocking.  If you’ve experienced lee-cocking you know it can be annoying or alarming depending on your situation!   What contributes to Lee-cocking?

Center-of-Mass and cockpit location:

Kayaks weather-cock because the act of paddling forward creates higher water pressure on the bow as compared to the stern.  The bow is locked-in by this higher pressure and the stern is loose (or looser) due to the lower pressure.  Wind can then push the loose stern more than the locked-in bow causing the kayak to effectively turn into the wind while underway - weather-cock.  

The location of the center-of-mass can have a sizable effect on weather-cocking and lee-cocking as it will further “lock-in” whichever end (bow or stern) has more weight.  Expedition paddlers know all about this because balancing the weight of their gear, fore-and-aft, will affect how their boat responds to wind.  But if you’re (like me) mostly a day-paddler, your body is the main “load” in the boat and then the location of the cockpit comes into play.

I’ve experienced alarming lee-cocking a few times in two boats in particular - my NDK Romany and the Tiderace Xtreme.  Both boats are pretty directionally neutral in mild/moderate winds.  But when conditions get bigger, they both can lee-cock in a cross wind. Why?  A big factor is because both boats have their cockpits placed somewhat towards the stern. This helps them track straight in following seas and makes them fun to surf.  But with the center-of-mass located somewhat towards the stern, the pressure on the bow is reduced during forward paddling, it is looser – and lee-cocking can result.

Figure 2 illustrates this effect by imagining kayaks with their cockpits located way at the bow or way at the stern. The Romany and Xtreme kayaks are (a tiny bit) like the boat with the cockpit at the stern.

Figure 2. Cockpit (center of mass) effect on Weather-cocking and Lee-cocking

 

If you’re confronted with lee-cocking when on-the-water, the first remedy is simply to scooch forward in your seat and lean forward some to move the center-of-mass towards the bow.  Even an inch or two helps. This will lock the bow in a bit more and loosen up the stern some, reducing lee-cocking. This always worked for me in the Romany.

Another factor to consider - the lee-cocking effect will occur less frequently for strong paddlers who propel their boats faster, since the pressure on the bow generated by a 3-knot paddling speed is less than at a 5-knot speed.  More speed = more water pressure on bow = bow is more locked in place = less lee cocking.   By the same token, a paddling speed that keeps the boat going straight in 10-knot winds may not be enough to prevent lee-cocking in 20-knot winds. 

Windage:

Windage, or the surface area of boat (and gear) exposed to the wind, contributes as well. If the surface area of your kayak is much bigger in the front as compared to the back, this unequal windage may make the boat prone to lee-cocking.  More commonly, gear stored on the deck can exacerbate lee-cocking and weather-cocking. In the case of lee-cocking, move any paddles and other items stored on deck that increase windage from the bow to the stern. This will reduce the “push” of the wind on the bow and increase it on the stern.  If weather-cocking, do the opposite.  Moving deck gear around is a lot easier if you’re paddling with others.

Figure 3. Move gear to reduce Lee-cocking

Lastly, waves hitting a kayak from the windward side seem (to me) to add to the lee-cocking effect of winds. Not sure why this is but, in my experience, it seems to be true. Perhaps waves have more of a pushing down-wind effect on the bow for the same reason that forward paddling adds water pressure at the bow – the bow is locked-in by this pressure so perhaps the wave forces are transmitted more at the bow than the stern (?). That’s just a guess.

Hope these observations make sense. 

 

Edging a Sea Kayak When Surfing - with Illustrations

One of my “Aha!” moments when learning to surf waves in a sea kayak was the realization that edging on the same side as your paddle during a stern rudder stroke is less effective (actually ineffective) in turning the boat.

As a kayak catches a wave and begins to move forward and "plane" on that wave, the bow will invariably begin to turn one way or the other. Without correcting this the kayak will eventually broach resulting in a side-surf or coming off the wave (wave passes underneath).  Using the stern rudder stroke and edging the kayak is necessary to get the kayak back on track when surfing.

Under regular paddling (non-surfing), the typical way to improve the effectiveness of a stern rudder stroke is to edge the kayak on the same side that you placed the paddle. [e.g., To Turn Left - Rudder On Left Side - Edge on Left Side].  Edging this way on the stroke-side is more natural for the body and quickens the turn by shortening the kayak’s waterline length. Doing it this way also allows for a quick transition to a low brace turn.

However, edging on the paddle side won’t work when surfing if your intent is to stay on the wave. If you edge on the same side as your paddle in the stern rudder stroke, two bad things happen: First, your edge will present more of the boat’s hull to the wave face - the flat underside portion of the hull in contact with the wave. This will increase the rotational force that has already begun to turn the kayak into a broach. (bad)  Second, the chine portion of the kayak hull has a curve to it from bow-to-stern, that will naturally act to turn the boat to the left when edged on the right and vice-versa.  Using this natural tendency of the hull to turn away from the side it's edged on is super helpful when fighting the broach. But if you edge on your paddle side you'll be edging on the down-slope side of the wave, and the curve of the kayak hull will very rapidly accelerate the broach that has begun. (bad)

So, edging the kayak on the OPPOSITE side from your paddle during a stern rudder stroke when surfing is much more effective in keeping the boat running straight and on the wave. It provides a double-whammy - the paddle and the edging work together. As your kayak begins to turn or broach, put the stern rudder stroke in on the down-wave side (trough side) but edge on the up-wave side (crest or peak side).   NOTE, doing it this way can be challenging to execute without practice. You may feel off-balance and unstable at first – your mind is telling you, “Don’t do that, if I edge on the side without a paddle I won’t have any support!?”  You must ignore that warning message from your brain, curl your torso/head away from the edge side to stay balanced (it's an "edge" after all, not a "lean"), and keep the paddle blade in the water.  Try it on some small waves at first to build muscle-memory.

I’ve done my best to sketch some illustrations of this (below) that I hope are clear enough.

Stern Rudder Stroke - Viewed from Stern

Stern Rudder Stroke - Viewed from Stern

CLICK TO ENLARGE

Old grainy photo of mine taken while surfing, pre-smartphone etc.
CLICK TO ENLARGE

CLICK TO ENLARGE

"Commando" Sea Kayak Launch Sites Map - Westchester and Fairfield Counties

WATER ACCESS POINTS FOR PADDLING (or lack thereof)...

LAUNCH SITES MAP - just places I've put my sea kayak in Long Island Sound over the years, in Westchester County NY and Fairfield County CT, beginning in the early 90's when "commando-launching" for solo paddling (not in groups) was perhaps easier to do. I was only stopped from launching a few times - usually easy to jump in the water and zoom off when solo. Launch spots on this map (LINK TO MAP) mainly for fun to show, not places I personally "sanction" or officially recommend. Enjoy.

Actual sign at Flint Park, Larchmont NY... :-( 

Other great resources for launch sites in Westchester and Connecticut are maps/lists from KALM and CONNYAK, links below. And additionally a great one from SKSA for Long Island kayak launch sites:

KALM Launch Sites

CONNYAK Launch Sites

SKSA Launch Sites

Hull Shape Effects on Sea Kayak Handling – Round vs Square Hull Cross Section

Round vs Square Hull Cross Section

Kayakers will fully appreciate how their kayak handles once they've owned it for a time and have paddled the boat in a variety of conditions. It's also helpful to learn about the general concepts of boat hull design and how these can affect a kayak's paddling characteristics. Doing so can steer you towards a kayak that best fits your needs. This post is limited to the subject of cross-sectional hull shape – a parameter that has an effect on catching waves in following seas.

For a complete run-down of the many factors that contribute to a sea kayak's overall handling characteristics, a good place to start is Nick Shade’s book on strip-built kayak construction The Strip Built Sea Kayak (1997). The first chapter of Nick's book has a comprehensive discussion on the subject of hull design with clear definitions of technical terms as prismatic coefficient, center of buoyancy, etc.

Figure 1: Round vs Square (boxy) Kayak Hull Cross Section

The cross-sectional shape of a sea kayak hull is by no means the main factor determining how a kayak will paddle – width, length, buoyancy, rocker, etc., will all have more significant effects on boat behavior.  However, once you’re in the realm of the “typical” sea kayak size, that is 16-18 feet long and 20-22 inches wide, the cross sectional shape of the hull becomes an important element to consider.

Round-shaped hulls provide the most efficient shape, with the minimum wetted surface and therefore the least friction (drag) through the water.  All things being equal, a kayak hull with a rounded cross sectional shape will be a bit faster than one with a square-shaped hull. This is true for all “displacement” boat hulls and is why racing kayaks and surf skis, whose principle purpose is to go fast, are all essentially round in cross section. Think of the Epic kayaks as one example.  In a kayak with the proper width and buoyancy, round-hulled kayaks can also be very stable and confidence-inspiring in confused seas. One of my favorite kayaks, the Valley Pintail, is in this category as is the Nordkapp, Avocet, and many others.

By contrast, square-shaped hulls improve a sea kayak’s ability to plane on a wave or “surf” at the sacrifice of some speed.  The flat bottom and boxy sides of this hull type allow the boat to catch waves more readily and will keep the boat on the wave longer (with proper paddler input) than a rounded hull kayak of similar length/width/rocker. This is especially true in following seas where you can sometimes see the square-shaped kayaks catch a wave and burst ahead of the others.  When a boat starts planing, it exceeds its non-planing displacement-hull speed for a short period until it can no longer keep up with the wave it’s riding on (due to hull drag or by surfing down into the wave in front which slows the boat).  In following seas, after the wave passes beneath the boat, you can keep paddling to catch the next one.  In short order you’ve covered a larger distance than paddlers who are not catching waves. It’s also great fun to feel the sea take you for a ride faster than you’re able to paddle under your own power. At shore breaking surf zones the same surfing/planing advantages of the square-shaped hull apply.

A perfectly flat hull would surf great (see Figure 2) but would be ill suited to the varied duties of a sea kayak – which must also paddle in a straight line, must handle wind/waves from all directions, and shouldn’t be too hard to turn when needed. So even sea kayaks with comparatively flat hulls will have a “shallow-v” shape to some extent to help with tracking and to minimize leeway (being blown sideways downwind).

Figure 2: yes a FLAT surface for surfing

“What about surf skis?,” you may ask, “they’ve got rounded hulls and yet surf great.”   Of course that’s true – any kayak will plane on a wave given the right combination of paddling speed, wave speed, period, and steepness.   But surf skis maintain their position on a wave with the help of a rudder and surf best on longer wavelength swell due to their longer length.  By contrast, the typical skeg-equipped sea kayak will not maintain its position on the sweet spot of a wave for long unless its boxy shape keeps it on the wave face.  In following seas or shore breaking waves, a round hull will veer off the wave more quickly.  Sure a round-hull kayak can catch a wave but it will be more of a struggle to stay on and the result will be a shorter ride and missed chances to catch waves. (By the way, I’m talking about moving waves here, not standing waves. A round-hull boat like the Valley Avocet or Sterling Reflection can sit nicely in the saucer-shaped pocket of a perfect tidal race standing wave. But catching moving waves over a straight course in following seas is not either boat's forte.)

In my experience, the price you pay for a kayak whose boxy shaped hull assists catching waves is a boat that is a bit of a bore to paddle on flat water.  They’re less “slippery” and may be less playful in calm conditions than round-shaped hulls. Boxy hulls are a bit slower and sometimes a drag – literally, some feel like they’re plowing through the water with greater resistance. To remedy this problem, manufacturers are experimenting with combination hull shapes – combining a roundish hull in the front part of the kayak to make for smooth entry through the water, joined with a square-shaped hull from the cockpit backwards to add a more solid edging feel and to improve surfing in following seas.  As of this writing (2019) P&H and Current Designs have some sea kayaks with “combination” hulls so-to-speak, which look intriguing.

Anybody can look at a kayak and see for themselves the general shape of its hull in cross-section.  Flip the boat over, look at and feel the hull – is it round or boxy?  Also, look inside the boat at the front and rear bulkheads.  What shape are they? Square-ish or round-ish?  (See Figure 3).

Figure 3: Look at the bulkheads

Some new “sea kayaks” are being designed with atypical dimensions for improved surfing ability. These include boats with increased rocker (the up-sweep of the hull’s keel line from bow to stern) and increased width and volume massed closer to the cockpit. While helpful for surfing shore-breaking waves, these modifications come at the expense of a boat’s general sea kayaking ability. Increased rocker hurts directional stability (paddling in a straight line) and may reduce a boat's speed.  Drastic changes in the distribution of a boat’s volume can limit its speed as well. A kayak that doesn’t extend a good portion of its volume out to the bow and stern will not be as fast as one with more evenly distributed volume (this has to do with "prismatic coefficient" and "effective waterline length" terms best described elsewhere, check Nick's book).  Also, lack of volume in the bow may contribute to the problem of "pearling", when the bow gets buried in the wave in front, another factor that can limit a kayak's surfing ability in following seas. Sea kayaks with shorter sterns also handle surf in following seas a bit better in my experience - less boat volume is buried in the wave which seems to help keep the kayak going straight and allows it to be more responsive to rudder strokes. (Separate link to post on that subject HERE.)

Buoyancy is a factor in this discussion, as is paddler weight, regardless of hull shape – a more buoyant kayak (or a lighter paddler) will be more playful, will push-back more when edged, will surf more readily, and will feel more lively overall regardless of hull shape (round or square). That’ll have to be a topic for a separate post.

That’s it for now.

What to do with the Knees? Alternative Sea Kayak Cockpit Designs

Ah, the perpetual debate.  Every sea kayaker will have an opinion and a preference about this, and that preference may change over time.  I was happy with an “ocean” cockpit for many years, moved from looser-fitting boats to tighter fitting ones, then back again.  My thoughts on four general categories of cockpit design below.

1. Knees under in the Middle (Ocean, Greenland)
2. Knees under out to the Side (Standard Keyhole)
3. Open or Exposed (Epic, West Coast)
4. Knees under but High (Keyhole Compromise)

1. Knees under in the Middle (Greenland or Ocean Cockpit)

Pros: boat control in rough water; potential for improved forward paddling form 
Cons: increased effort during entry/exit

Traditional Greenland sea kayaks intended for open water use typically had small, round cockpits to keep the water out and to facilitate the attachment of a seal skin spray skirt or Tuilik.  The first British fiberglass kayaks copied this traditional or “ocean cockpit” design.  It’s a cockpit style that has fallen out of fashion in recent years. The ocean cockpit allows placement of the knees anywhere along the underside of the deck and is often paired with a knee tube or centrally-placed foam block glued under the deck to allow contact points for your knees for boat control.  I used a fairly roomy ocean cockpit on a VCP Pintail kayak exclusively for many years and preferred it over keyhole cockpits for these reasons – more comfort, better forward paddling ergonomics with legs out straight (not bent Indian-style), and excellent boat control with the knees gripping the central foam block.  The downside is the extra struggle to get in and out of an ocean cockpit, which requires shimmying in from the back deck while bracing with the paddle at the shoreline. Not an insignificant annoyance but one that's acceptable to many.

Even smaller ocean cockpits with lower decks are common on today's Greenland-inspired kayaks, whether skin-on-frame, wood, or fiberglass. These  allow for an even lower knee position which can reduce the up-down movement of the legs and so can limit torso rotation during forward paddling.  But as anyone who paddles a Greenland boat will tell you, their low decks provide superior contact points for boat control.  One school of thought is that the Inuit did not employ much torso rotation during forward paddling, but instead relied on low strokes and “breaking the box” arm movements, meaning bending the elbows more (i.e. the paddle shaft does not remain in-line with the shoulders as much during the forward stroke as compared to the European-style forward stroke). When paired with a Greenland paddle, this less dynamic way of forward paddling may be easier on the spine over the long haul and makes sense when one considers that native peoples needed to maintain a life’s time of paddling to survive.

2. Knees under out to the Side (Standard Keyhole)

Pros: boat control in rough water; speed/safety when existing during rough water landings
Cons: may restrict forward paddling form and forces

Sea kayaks began borrowing the keyhole cockpit designs first introduced in whitewater boats, which provide firm and typically low grip areas for the thighs. Edging the kayak and C-to-C rolling with such a setup is fantastic due to the leverage provided by having the knees out to the side “Indian-style”.  Another advantage to the keyhole design is the ability to get the legs out of the boat quickly at the shoreline, providing an added measure of safety during exposed landings.

The problem with the standard keyhole cockpit comes in the forward paddling department. Kayak manufacturers play around with the height of the cockpit coaming’s thigh braces or “thigh hooks”.  Setting them low provides a tight fit and immediate response, while setting them higher allows room to pump the legs a little bit when forward paddling. But either way, with the standard keyhole cockpit’s Indian-style knee position the “line of force” from your hips down the legs to the feet is not a straight line. As compared to ocean cockpit or open cockpit boats (discussed below), the angled leg position necessitated by the keyhole cockpit design reduces the effectiveness of torso rotation and the transfer of force from your body to the footpegs/footplate during the forward stroke.  But for most rough-water sea kayakers, the keyhole cockpit is a reasonable trade-off that creates a boat that is just as maneuverable (controllable) as an ocean cockpit-equipped boat with the added benefit that one can easily get in and out of it without a lot of gymnastics.

3. Open or Exposed (Epic, West Coast)

Pros: improved forward paddling, freedom of movement
Cons: boat control in rough water

American-style (i.e. West Coast) kayaks were initially made with bigger cockpits for use in protected waters. Sitting in such a kayak, the knees can be kept together in the center and up above the cockpit rim while paddling but, when necessary, the knees can be tucked under the sides of the cockpit to edge and control the boat.  This cockpit style does not provide substantial thigh hooks so lacks the positive leg-to-deck contact points found in the keyhole cockpit shape.  But these boats do gain one key advantage - with the wider cockpit opening they can be paddled in a knees-up position similar to surf skis or to K1 racing boats. Some even come with a central foot plate so that the feet can be kept together rather than out to the sides on footpegs.  These elements are of great benefit when forwarding padding. Epic's sea kayaks (inspired by surf skis) fall into this category as do older designs such as the Necky Arluk/Tesla, the Current Designs Solstice, and others – there were many kayaks with open cockpits in the early ‘90’s when I started sea kayaking.  However, boat control in rough water is a little tricky with this cockpit design, relying more on shifting weight and support strokes with the paddle since the knee-to-deck contacts are not immediately available for lateral adjustments (roll trim).

If you don’t paddle frequently in bumpy water, then the open cockpit design has many advantages.

4. Knees under but High (Keyhole Compromise)

Pros: knees up for improved forward paddling; boat control in rough water
Cons: ?windage?

With the goal of improving upon the keyhole cockpit, designers at Rockpool and Tiderace (and possibly other companies) have added a 3-dimensional quality to the coaming with thigh hooks (thigh grips) that dip down into the cockpit opening to allow for a higher, more centered knee position while retaining the keyhole’s other advantages.  I’ve paddled a bunch of kayaks with this design and I can say without reservation that this design is an improvement for most people.  The key features are the more vertical (up/down) surface provided by the thigh hooks, the placement of the thigh hooks closer together to reduce the angle of the paddler's legs, and the greater height at the front of the coaming. This design puts the legs more in-line with the feet (the knees are less splayed out) which allows some additional up-down leg movement and torso rotation. Not as good for forward paddling as a surf ski or open cockpit, but better than the old-style "locked in" keyhole shape. So in a sense, this cockpit design is a "compromise" between the standard keyhole and the more centered-knee position allowed by the open cockpit.  Another advantage I’ve noted in these designs is that the thigh hooks are just an extension of the coaming, the kayak’s deck is not part of thigh hooks.  This allows the cockpit opening to have a continuously round, elliptical shape so that the spray skirt rand fits snug and as a consequence the cockpit can be more water tight than with Standard Keyhole shapes.

As far as “cons” to this cockpit design, if the front deck height is taken to extremes (as in the Rockpool Alaw kayak), this design may add windage and get in the way of low sweep strokes. Also, the front part of the cockpit is a bit narrower with this cockpit type which may hamper a wet exit slightly.  Neither problem a big deal in practice as far as I'm concerned.

Ratios of Bow Length to Stern Length - Kayaks

At the risk of spreading misinformation – this might be of interest to some, see tables below.  Been talking to a friend about various boat options he’s considering buying. So, I made these very approximate measurements simply using plan-view photographs available online to help that discussion. They show the ratio of bow length to stern length for select SKUK and Tiderace kayaks. The numbers mean nothing in themselves (I measured in centimeters with a ruler on the computer screen) – but assuming the photos were all well-centered when taken and assuming my measurements are fairly accurate (two big “if’s”), I think the bow/stern length ratios say something about the behavior of these boats.  The bigger ratios have more length in front of the cockpit as compared to behind the cockpit, whereas the smaller ratios are more balanced fore and aft.

So for example, the Romany is at the higher end of the bow-to-stern ratio with a 1.64 and behaves that way – its comparatively short stern is very maneuverable when planing on a wave and the boat remains straight-running in following seas, resists broaching more than some. But when paddled forward aggressively on flat water its short stern (and therefore lack of volume behind the cockpit) can cause the kayak to “sink” in the rear, especially with a heavier paddler (like me at my 185 lbs former weight).  At the opposite end of the scale, the Explorer and Latitude are more balanced fore-and-aft, coming in at the lower end of bow/stern ratios – 1.50 and 1.41.  Having owned an Explorer, this makes sense – it glides better, resists “sitting” in the stern and is good for distance paddling. 

This “method” can’t be used across kayak manufactures – I think it only says something when comparing boats of very similar hull design.  The SKUK hulls are all “variations on a theme” with roughly similar distribution of volume, rocker, etc.   Comparing these ratios for SKUK boats against ratios for Epic kayaks, for example, would be meaningless as these boats have strikingly different shapes. Most significantly, the Epic hulls are based on surf skis and so are strongly swede-form, so can have very high hull volume behind the cockpit despite having a comparatively short stern.

I did the same thing for some Tiderace boats I’ve paddled – separate table below.  It too supports my impressions of these kayaks.  The Xtra is designed for playing in rough water and sure enough has a comparatively high bow/stern length ratio of 1.58. Whereas the touring purpose of the Xplore has a lower ratio of 1.36.

Just something to think about.

Draw Strokes on the Move (it’s all the same thing)

Always wondered why the various directional "draw" strokes were never taught this way to beginner paddlers from the outset - why no one ever clued me in to the fact that, “Hey, they’re all the same stroke!”  They all pull the boat towards your paddle.  After I was clued in to this, I would pass it along to other paddlers who sometimes had an "Aha!" moment.  

Best way to illustrate is the image below.  The only difference between the bow rudder (bow draw), stern rudder (stern draw), or side-slip (hanging draw) kayak strokes (all draw strokes) is where you place the paddle blade, up or down the line of the boat.  If you put the blade in up by the bow, it will pull the bow towards your paddle and therefore turn the boat that way. If you put it by the cockpit… it will pull the boat towards your paddle which moves the entire boat in a "side slip" from amidships so ideally the boat stays straight. Lastly, if you put the blade back towards the stern it will….you guessed it, pull the stern towards your paddle which effectively turns the bow the opposite way.  

Keys to executing any of these Draw Strokes include:

·         Get some speed – the stroke doesn’t work if you’re not moving forward

·         Place the blade fully in the water and hold it firmly in place

·         Angle the blade slightly outward to catch the moving water, this will pull your boat (and you) in the direction of the paddle

Hanging Draw Position

Bow Draw (Rudder) Position

Stern Draw Stroke in Action

Stern Draw Blade Angle position (but when executing, put paddle in more vertical position (raise offside hand) as shown in image to left)

Kayaking Forward Stroke Technique - to Avoid Wrist Pain

Forward Stroke with Attention to Form

My forward stroke technique isn't perfect by any means - but if you read enough articles and take enough classes over the years, you learn a few things. A paddling friend, new to sea kayaking, is having wrist pain recently. So I sent him some pointers (see sequenced photo slides of forward stroke below):

Hey Colin - bummer about the wrists, take a break and see how it goes. I've not had wrist pain from paddling myself but it's a common complaint. As you suggested, bent-shaft paddles can help wrist pain, so you could definitely try that.  But there's also typically something off (improper) about your forward stroke if you're getting wrist pain (or elbow pain/tendonitis). Your left wrist is worse you say - so I expect you're correct in thinking it's related to gripping the shaft too firmly.  Gripping the top hand during the non-active phase is definitely a typical cause of wrist problems.  I could probably give you some pointers if I saw your stroke.

Two key things to work on for your forward stroke are torso rotation and keeping your top hand (high hand) relaxed. If you feather your paddle you'll definitely need to loosen the grip on the top hand, especially the left if that's your non-control hand. Some people teach the forward stroke with the proverb "Lefty loosey, Righty tighty" to remind you to keep the shaft loose in the left hand (if you're right-handed). Also try opening your fingers on the top (high) hand as you push forward and across, to force yourself to keep your top hand relaxed during that part of the stroke. Retain that loose grip as the top hand transitions to the active one, plant the paddle forward by your toes (still with a loose grip) and only grip the shaft firmly again at the last minute, after the blade's fully submerged.  This pumping action (firm grip, loose grip, etc.) helps prevent over-gripping and wrist problems for most people.

The second thing that is key to the forward stroke is torso rotation, and one way I've found to build "muscle memory" for this is to keep your elbows from bending through the stroke too much.  Bending at the elbows means you're using your arms too much and not your torso. Instead, practice paddling a bit like "Frankenstein" whenever you think of it, as if your elbows can't bend (not fully straight arms but only slightly bent) - keep your arms this way as you sweep the active blade through the water and push the top hand across. This forces you to rotate your torso.  (Once you get the hang of it, you can reintroduce some bend to the arms - so you look less like Frankenstein).  Your top hand will come across at eye level and will stay at that height all the way across the entire time - don't let it drop down at the end of the stroke.  Instead keep it high until the active blade is at your hip, then lift the active blade out of the water by raising the onside hand, NOT by dropping your top hand down.  Dropping the top hand at the end of the stroke scoops water which is bad and can torque the wrist.  In addition to adding power and stamina to your stroke by forcing more torso rotation, following this description should help lessen strain on the wrists. Try watching some surf ski or racing paddlers on YouTube if this description isn't clear - their form is usually very good.  A great resource is Atlantic Kayak Tours' "Expert Center" which has tips on the Forward Stroke among many topics.

You've probably heard this stuff before - but taking time to break it down and practice is something sea kayakers spend many years perfecting - forever really. The slides below show attention to form - you won't paddle like this all day, but whenever you think of it try this for 10-20 strokes to work on form.  Thing is, since you got into whitewater paddling first a few years ago, I expect you're using a wider variety of strokes but may not have given too much thought to Forward Stroke form.  Sea kayakers can get away with a smaller set of strokes, but getting an efficient forward stroke is critical because they have to keep it up a long time (and to avoid stress injuries).

Later - JIM

CLICK ON 1ST SLIDE TO BEGIN SEQUENCE SHOWING FORWARD STROKE STEPS:

Slide 1

Slide 2

Slide 3

Slide 4

Slide 5

Slide 6

Slide 7

RUNNING LIST of Top Tips & Handy Hints (observations gathered over the years)

Not My Kayak - but I did own a Pintail once...

·       If you're just going out for a short day paddle and don't want your water bottle, radio etc. banging around in your day hatch, put them in an old clear PVC drybag (clear, stiff, thick plastic ones) kept unclipped/open in the hatch. That old style of drybag provides good shock-absorption for stuff and you can still get at things easily while on the water.

·         When paddling in a group, consider the advantages of sharing large-size safety gear -  not everyone needs to bring spare paddles, a wind shelter, extra water/clothing, etc. - as long as there's enough to go around. Why weigh down everyone's boat unnecessarily. 

·         Waterproof nautical maps are worth the extra few bucks – and mostly can be used bare on your deck under the bungees.  But if in the surf zone, putting them away or in a map case secured to the deck is wise because they can wash off from under the bungees.

·         “Winds Come, Tides Go” – a north wind is coming from the north, a north tide/current is going to (flowing towards) north.

·         With wind at your back, the area of low pressure is to your left (in northern hemisphere). Helpful for tracking storms.

·         Keep a clear deck as much as possible in rough water. Paddles and pumps and water bottles on deck impede rescues (self and assisting) , can hamper low angle strokes, and often shift or break loose.  Under deck, in hatch, or on-person alternatives are preferred in most cases.

·         After a tow, if still in bumpy conditions, just stuff the line in a loose bundle down the front of your pfd.  Repack your tow line bag later in calm water.

·         Those 8x11 sheets of cheap plastic laminating film (from Office Max or Staples) work for sealing printed tide tables or charts you’ve gotten from the computer.  But after one or two uses, they leak. 

·         Bow Draw, Side-Slip, Hanging Draw, Draw on the Move, Stern Draw… are all the same thing just at different locations up and down the side of your boat.  You’re pulling water towards the boat by angling the blade – differs only in what part of the boat you want to draw.

·         As the boat slows during a hanging draw stroke (side slip), you must gradually move the position of the paddle forwards in response to the reduction in speed. Otherwise the hanging draw becomes a stern draw. (Friction of bow wave reduces as speed slows so bow gets looser).

·         If your stern rudder stroke is weak, try raising your offside hand – puts more blade in contact with moving water.

·         RV Roof Repair Tape (Eterna Bond) works well as an emergency patch – better than Duct tape or Denzo tape.

·         Check and Replace items in your First Aid kit on a regular basis – ibuprofen, band-aids, etc.

·         If you’re the tower in an assisted tow, hook your carabiner to the victim’s boat, but only under the front deck line of the assistant’s boat. This way the assistant can pull himself up along the victim's boat to unhook the tow if need be.

·         The victim has to lean hard onto the rescuer’s boat during a contact tow. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the rescuer to paddler straight.

·         For effective reverse paddling, slap the back face of the paddle onto the water behind you and push down, bringing the off-side hand up high (vertically) out over that side of the boat – this will help create a mirror image of a high-angle forward stroke, but in reverse. Otherwise, your reverse paddling will be a series of low angle reverse sweeps making it harder to go straight.

·         When surfing a wave, if your bow is headed to the right (boat is beginning to broach) your stern rudder (on left side) will be more effective if you edge on the side away from the paddle (edge to right).  Seems counterintuitive and is harder to do, but works better.  By contrast, if you edge on the same side as the stern rudder, i.e. edging on the paddle side (which feels more natural), the shape of kayak hull will reinforce the broach, not fight it.

·         A small monocular in your pfd is helpful to read buoy numbers for navigation.

·         A spare paddle should be easy to assemble quickly when you need it – otherwise it’s not an effective piece of safety equipment.

·         When forward paddling, it's OK to allow the top hand to cross the center line of the kayak – shows you’re rotating the torso. Keep that top hand high to avoid scooping up water with the active blade at the end of the stroke.

·         Ankle-high booties prevent submerged objects (rocks, etc.) from cutting your ankles.

·         Loosen the back band and push the footpegs forward for comfort on distance paddles.

·         Always talk (however briefly) before you leave the beach to discuss the float plan and agree on a VHF channel (if you’re using radios).

 ·         Never leave a group of paddlers without telling someone (preferably several people) that you're breaking off from the group and heading home (or wherever).

·         Kayak fishing is fun, but it’s not easy landing a fish from a closed cockpit boat and dealing with all the gear without something going amiss…Fishing kayaks are wide and have open cockpits for a reason.

·         Some strong paddlers with good stamina and endurance on flatwater are uncomfortable in even moderate sea conditions. (Sometimes surprisingly so.) And vice versa - some who are comfortable in larger sea conditions do not have the most stamina. Be mindful of the variable skills (and hidden weaknesses) of the group as sea conditions change … and be prepared to tow or be towed.

·         If you’re the lead paddler (or in the group at the front) and have stopped to wait for the slower paddlers to catch up, don’t immediately resume paddling when the slower people get there. Give them some time to rest first!

·         When exiting your boat in beach-breaking surf, make sure your kayak is landward of you and the waves. Do no stand with your boat seaward of you, otherwise you risk the boat smashing you in the legs when hit by a wave. MAJORLY important rule for surf landings.

·         Waterproof headlamps do not float – attach them somehow if dealing with waves/surf when night paddling.

·         Boats are heavy – ALWAYS offer to help other paddlers carry a kayak and NEVER feel embarrassed to ask for help lifting/carrying your boat.  Save your back and arms for the paddling.

·         Four (4) people carrying a loaded boat is best when carrying any distance – yes 4. No shame.

·         ALL OTHER watercraft have the right of way – kayaks come last.  Not a written rule necessarily, but essentially true. We are most vulnerable.  Be cautious and aware.

·         When on a crossing/meeting (or collision) course with a motor boat, stop paddling to let him pass in front of you but keep making the paddling motion (move the paddle up and down) simply so the boater is more likely to see you – paddle motion is what others see first, not you and your little boat.

·         Pay attention to fore/aft trim when packing your boat – e.g. put gear up in the bow hatch if your stern sits low to compensate for an off balance center of buoyancy. It noticeably helps handling.

·         Contrary to what some say, your seat position does affect boat handling. Sit a bit further forward (or lean your torso forward) to help turning and edging if your boat seems sluggish or if lee-cocking in big winds. Even an inch or two makes a difference.

·         Swap spare paddles or other deck-mounted gear from the front to the rear deck if your boat is lee-cocking in big winds.

·        To avoid motorboats in areas of marked buoyage, remember the "Red-Right-Returning” rule…BUT do not assume motor boats (planing craft) will stick to marked channels. They have very little draft and OFTEN do not follow the R-R-R rule.

·         Paddlers who bring treats for others at break time (candy?cookies?) are looked upon more favorably by others than those who don’t!

·         Give advice to others humbly. Some paddlers don’t want it. Some are having a perfectly fine time doing it their way. BUT it doesn’t hurt to offer helpful advice if someone is struggling.

- Wind/waves running against current (opposite direction) heightens the waves.  So if you're looking to hit a tide race/overfall at a time most likely to have bigger conditions, get there at time of Max Current on a day when there's some good opposing swell.  (For the NE U.S. this is typically at Max Ebb Current with incoming swell from the east/southeast).

Shoulder Injury Kayaking

No posts for awhile (I have at least one confirmed person who's read my posts, hence this notification!) - I've been out of commission (no paddling) since late September 2011 when I injured my left shoulder during a rolling exercise while taking a kayaking class (thankfully in the afternoon of the last day so it wasn't a complete bust). That's right, not even paddling - just doing a rolling exercise at the direction of the instructor! Would have preferred to have injured it riding a massive wave or shooting some rapids! Word to the wise - keep your hands in front of your body while paddling (within the "box" or safety zone) and don't do anything your heart-and-mind are telling you is a risky maneuver.  Not worth it - physical therapy for rotator cuff tears is no fun, progress can be exceedingly slow, and the surgery option looms in the near future.  My kayaks and equipment gathering dust...  Surgeon tells me I have a footprint tear (pulled away from bone) of my rotator cuff tendon and a torn labrum (cartilage that lines the shoulder socket).  I knew something was wrong immediately - upon injury, after the sharp pain subsided, my arm was like a dead weight. Had to drive home with one hand on the steering wheel. Surgery may involve drilling anchors into bone to re-attach tendon and apparently long rehab.  Keep an eye out for a some used kayaks for sale in the springtime!....(kidding) we'll see how this goes.