Kayaking Forward Stroke Technique - to Avoid Wrist Pain

Forward Stroke with Attention to Form

My forward stroke technique isn't perfect by any means - but if you read enough articles and take enough classes over the years, you learn a few things. A paddling friend, new to sea kayaking, is having wrist pain recently. So I sent him some pointers (see sequenced photo slides of forward stroke below):

Hey Colin - bummer about the wrists, take a break and see how it goes. I've not had wrist pain from paddling myself but it's a common complaint. As you suggested, bent-shaft paddles can help wrist pain, so you could definitely try that.  But there's also typically something off (improper) about your forward stroke if you're getting wrist pain (or elbow pain/tendonitis). Your left wrist is worse you say - so I expect you're correct in thinking it's related to gripping the shaft too firmly.  Gripping the top hand during the non-active phase is definitely a typical cause of wrist problems.  I could probably give you some pointers if I saw your stroke.

Two key things to work on for your forward stroke are torso rotation and keeping your top hand (high hand) relaxed. If you feather your paddle you'll definitely need to loosen the grip on the top hand, especially the left if that's your non-control hand. Some people teach the forward stroke with the proverb "Lefty loosey, Righty tighty" to remind you to keep the shaft loose in the left hand (if you're right-handed). Also try opening your fingers on the top (high) hand as you push forward and across, to force yourself to keep your top hand relaxed during that part of the stroke. Retain that loose grip as the top hand transitions to the active one, plant the paddle forward by your toes (still with a loose grip) and only grip the shaft firmly again at the last minute, after the blade's fully submerged.  This pumping action (firm grip, loose grip, etc.) helps prevent over-gripping and wrist problems for most people.

The second thing that is key to the forward stroke is torso rotation, and one way I've found to build "muscle memory" for this is to keep your elbows from bending through the stroke too much.  Bending at the elbows means you're using your arms too much and not your torso. Instead, practice paddling a bit like "Frankenstein" whenever you think of it, as if your elbows can't bend (not fully straight arms but only slightly bent) - keep your arms this way as you sweep the active blade through the water and push the top hand across. This forces you to rotate your torso.  (Once you get the hang of it, you can reintroduce some bend to the arms - so you look less like Frankenstein).  Your top hand will come across at eye level and will stay at that height all the way across the entire time - don't let it drop down at the end of the stroke.  Instead keep it high until the active blade is at your hip, then lift the active blade out of the water by raising the onside hand, NOT by dropping your top hand down.  Dropping the top hand at the end of the stroke scoops water which is bad and can torque the wrist.  In addition to adding power and stamina to your stroke by forcing more torso rotation, following this description should help lessen strain on the wrists. Try watching some surf ski or racing paddlers on YouTube if this description isn't clear - their form is usually very good.  A great resource is Atlantic Kayak Tours' "Expert Center" which has tips on the Forward Stroke among many topics.

You've probably heard this stuff before - but taking time to break it down and practice is something sea kayakers spend many years perfecting - forever really. The slides below show attention to form - you won't paddle like this all day, but whenever you think of it try this for 10-20 strokes to work on form.  Thing is, since you got into whitewater paddling first a few years ago, I expect you're using a wider variety of strokes but may not have given too much thought to Forward Stroke form.  Sea kayakers can get away with a smaller set of strokes, but getting an efficient forward stroke is critical because they have to keep it up a long time (and to avoid stress injuries).

Later - JIM

CLICK ON 1ST SLIDE TO BEGIN SEQUENCE SHOWING FORWARD STROKE STEPS:

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In Defense of the SKUK Romany Kayak – Review



Not that the Romany needs defending exactly, but it’s not a new design.  And I’ve written about other kayaks I’ve demoed on this blog, but not yet about the kayak I own. The two flagship kayaks of the SKUK (NDK) line remain the Romany and the Explorer – neither has changed much since their release in the early 1990’s. I’ve owned both and they are the only kayaks that I purchased new, custom ordered from the UK. Other boats I’ve owned have come and gone – good boats that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed. But I’ve still kept the Romany and am unlikely to part with it.  Here's why:

The hull is a friendly design – comfortable for those new to the sport and one that increasingly shows its value as a paddler’s skills improve. The Romany has enough rocker to be fun and responsive in conditions, while also remaining straight-running even without using the skeg. It has a boxy chine to carve and maneuver in following seas or when surfing, but is more gentle than some of the recent kayak designs that respond sharply to edging. The boat is reassuring in big conditions – whether your energy is high and you’re attacking the surf, or at the end of a long day and your goal is to get home.  Other kayaks may excel at certain times because of the choices the boat's designer made – some are better at distance paddling, some are more sharply responsive in surf, some may handle beam waves with a bit more ease. But these same kayaks can also become a burden at times – those with too much rocker are hard to keep straight, those with fully rounded chines lack a responsive edge to support aggressive sweep strokes, those with an even flatter cross-section may suffer more leeway in high winds.  The Romany hull is a thoughtful compromise that solidly performs all that a skilled paddler can throw at it while not excelling in any one area to the detriment of another. For this reason, having such a boat is (in my opinion) a good decision for all sea kayakers. Whether it is the only boat you own, or the “workhorse” in your fleet to use when you need a reliable craft, the Romany is a great choice.

They’re also pretty bomb-proof.  Though heavy, I’ve bashed my SKUK boats around and they’re solidly built and largely maintenance free.  In my experience the round hatches are bone dry no matter how rough the conditions are.  The boat doesn’t have any fiddly parts or an odd layout – the skeg slider is where it should be; the deck lines are well arranged – they avoid the day hatch area so you can put the cover back on easily (for example); the thigh braces and seat are simple, functional, and ergonomic for an active paddler.  The thing just works well – Nigel Dennis got it right the first time and clearly sees no reason to make substantial changes to the boat. And of course with the popularity of the SKUK boats among seasoned paddlers, it seems every other manufacturer has incorporated some of the Romany/Explorer design elements into their own boats - imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.  Despite a lot of imitators, no one has created anything that's quite as good as the original – the Romany and Explorer remain at the top of the short list of rough water sea kayaks.

There are tons of Romany’s out there among experienced sea kayakers, yet you don’t see too many for sale.  The reason for this is obvious I think – once you own one you don't want to part with it. In fact, Sea Kayaker Magazine voted the Romany the “Best Day/Weekend Kayak” and “Best Rough-Water Kayak” in their 2011 Readers Choice awards.  For a design that hasn’t changed in 20 years, that’s saying something.

RUNNING LIST of Top Tips & Handy Hints (observations gathered over the years)

Not My Kayak - but I did own a Pintail once...

·       If you're just going out for a short day paddle and don't want your water bottle, radio etc. banging around in your day hatch, put them in an old clear PVC drybag (clear, stiff, thick plastic ones) kept unclipped/open in the hatch. That old style of drybag provides good shock-absorption for stuff and you can still get at things easily while on the water.

·         When paddling in a group, consider the advantages of sharing large-size safety gear -  not everyone needs to bring spare paddles, a wind shelter, extra water/clothing, etc. - as long as there's enough to go around. Why weigh down everyone's boat unnecessarily. 

·         Waterproof nautical maps are worth the extra few bucks – and mostly can be used bare on your deck under the bungees.  But if in the surf zone, putting them away or in a map case secured to the deck is wise because they can wash off from under the bungees.

·         “Winds Come, Tides Go” – a north wind is coming from the north, a north tide/current is going to (flowing towards) north.

·         With wind at your back, the area of low pressure is to your left (in northern hemisphere). Helpful for tracking storms.

·         Keep a clear deck as much as possible in rough water. Paddles and pumps and water bottles on deck impede rescues (self and assisting) , can hamper low angle strokes, and often shift or break loose.  Under deck, in hatch, or on-person alternatives are preferred in most cases.

·         After a tow, if still in bumpy conditions, just stuff the line in a loose bundle down the front of your pfd.  Repack your tow line bag later in calm water.

·         Those 8x11 sheets of cheap plastic laminating film (from Office Max or Staples) work for sealing printed tide tables or charts you’ve gotten from the computer.  But after one or two uses, they leak. 

·         Bow Draw, Side-Slip, Hanging Draw, Draw on the Move, Stern Draw… are all the same thing just at different locations up and down the side of your boat.  You’re pulling water towards the boat by angling the blade – differs only in what part of the boat you want to draw.

·         As the boat slows during a hanging draw stroke (side slip), you must gradually move the position of the paddle forwards in response to the reduction in speed. Otherwise the hanging draw becomes a stern draw. (Friction of bow wave reduces as speed slows so bow gets looser).

·         If your stern rudder stroke is weak, try raising your offside hand – puts more blade in contact with moving water.

·         RV Roof Repair Tape (Eterna Bond) works well as an emergency patch – better than Duct tape or Denzo tape.

·         Check and Replace items in your First Aid kit on a regular basis – ibuprofen, band-aids, etc.

·         If you’re the tower in an assisted tow, hook your carabiner to the victim’s boat, but only under the front deck line of the assistant’s boat. This way the assistant can pull himself up along the victim's boat to unhook the tow if need be.

·         The victim has to lean hard onto the rescuer’s boat during a contact tow. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the rescuer to paddler straight.

·         For effective reverse paddling, slap the back face of the paddle onto the water behind you and push down, bringing the off-side hand up high (vertically) out over that side of the boat – this will help create a mirror image of a high-angle forward stroke, but in reverse. Otherwise, your reverse paddling will be a series of low angle reverse sweeps making it harder to go straight.

·         When surfing a wave, if your bow is headed to the right (boat is beginning to broach) your stern rudder (on left side) will be more effective if you edge on the side away from the paddle (edge to right).  Seems counterintuitive and is harder to do, but works better.  By contrast, if you edge on the same side as the stern rudder, i.e. edging on the paddle side (which feels more natural), the shape of kayak hull will reinforce the broach, not fight it.

·         A small monocular in your pfd is helpful to read buoy numbers for navigation.

·         A spare paddle should be easy to assemble quickly when you need it – otherwise it’s not an effective piece of safety equipment.

·         When forward paddling, it's OK to allow the top hand to cross the center line of the kayak – shows you’re rotating the torso. Keep that top hand high to avoid scooping up water with the active blade at the end of the stroke.

·         Ankle-high booties prevent submerged objects (rocks, etc.) from cutting your ankles.

·         Loosen the back band and push the footpegs forward for comfort on distance paddles.

·         Always talk (however briefly) before you leave the beach to discuss the float plan and agree on a VHF channel (if you’re using radios).

 ·         Never leave a group of paddlers without telling someone (preferably several people) that you're breaking off from the group and heading home (or wherever).

·         Kayak fishing is fun, but it’s not easy landing a fish from a closed cockpit boat and dealing with all the gear without something going amiss…Fishing kayaks are wide and have open cockpits for a reason.

·         Some strong paddlers with good stamina and endurance on flatwater are uncomfortable in even moderate sea conditions. (Sometimes surprisingly so.) And vice versa - some who are comfortable in larger sea conditions do not have the most stamina. Be mindful of the variable skills (and hidden weaknesses) of the group as sea conditions change … and be prepared to tow or be towed.

·         If you’re the lead paddler (or in the group at the front) and have stopped to wait for the slower paddlers to catch up, don’t immediately resume paddling when the slower people get there. Give them some time to rest first!

·         When exiting your boat in beach-breaking surf, make sure your kayak is landward of you and the waves. Do no stand with your boat seaward of you, otherwise you risk the boat smashing you in the legs when hit by a wave. MAJORLY important rule for surf landings.

·         Waterproof headlamps do not float – attach them somehow if dealing with waves/surf when night paddling.

·         Boats are heavy – ALWAYS offer to help other paddlers carry a kayak and NEVER feel embarrassed to ask for help lifting/carrying your boat.  Save your back and arms for the paddling.

·         Four (4) people carrying a loaded boat is best when carrying any distance – yes 4. No shame.

·         ALL OTHER watercraft have the right of way – kayaks come last.  Not a written rule necessarily, but essentially true. We are most vulnerable.  Be cautious and aware.

·         When on a crossing/meeting (or collision) course with a motor boat, stop paddling to let him pass in front of you but keep making the paddling motion (move the paddle up and down) simply so the boater is more likely to see you – paddle motion is what others see first, not you and your little boat.

·         Pay attention to fore/aft trim when packing your boat – e.g. put gear up in the bow hatch if your stern sits low to compensate for an off balance center of buoyancy. It noticeably helps handling.

·         Contrary to what some say, your seat position does affect boat handling. Sit a bit further forward (or lean your torso forward) to help turning and edging if your boat seems sluggish or if lee-cocking in big winds. Even an inch or two makes a difference.

·         Swap spare paddles or other deck-mounted gear from the front to the rear deck if your boat is lee-cocking in big winds.

·        To avoid motorboats in areas of marked buoyage, remember the "Red-Right-Returning” rule…BUT do not assume motor boats (planing craft) will stick to marked channels. They have very little draft and OFTEN do not follow the R-R-R rule.

·         Paddlers who bring treats for others at break time (candy?cookies?) are looked upon more favorably by others than those who don’t!

·         Give advice to others humbly. Some paddlers don’t want it. Some are having a perfectly fine time doing it their way. BUT it doesn’t hurt to offer helpful advice if someone is struggling.

- Wind/waves running against current (opposite direction) heightens the waves.  So if you're looking to hit a tide race/overfall at a time most likely to have bigger conditions, get there at time of Max Current on a day when there's some good opposing swell.  (For the NE U.S. this is typically at Max Ebb Current with incoming swell from the east/southeast).

Sterling “Reflection” Kayak Review - Made for the Waves

Had the unique opportunity to paddle the "Reflection" by Sterling Kayaks last weekend. The attraction for me is its light weight – probably 10 lbs lighter than your typical British boat judging by its heft – and its maneuverability.  A boat for short local paddles that's easier to carry are key features for me these days. And something that puts a smile on my face if the waves/wind get big is good too.  After seeing a photo of the Reflection, the thing just looked like a radical departure in terms of shape as compared to other kayaks – so I wanted to try it out.

  

Sterling "Reflection" kayak - Groton, CT

Sterling Kayaks is a U.S. company out of Bellingham, Washington. Recent online videos of sea kayakers paddling the Skookumchuck tide race are well populated by this boat nowadays. Sterling is something of a custom shop, focused on specific designs and light construction. Lacking dealers on the east coast, I happened upon a local kayaker in Connecticut who may own the only Reflection east of the Mississippi!  I joined him and a few paddling friends of his – and he kindly let me paddle his boat while he paddled mine. 

Couple things about the Reflection – the boat is 16 feet long, has HUGE rocker and narrow/tapered ends. (Somewhat reminiscent of Derek Hutchinson's Gultstream/Slipstream kayaks if anyone remembers those, but with more rocker).  The bow and stern exhibit little volume below the waterline - their shape resembles narrow fins for gently engaging the water when the hull hits a wave or is surfing in the trough. To complement the fineness of the bow/stern, the volume of the hull is instead concentrated in the middle by the cockpit – at 23 inches with a rounded chine it pushes back forcefully when edged. A fun responsive feel.  The end result in calm water is a boat that is VERY maneuverable and fun to paddle along the shore, turning this way and that, edging around obstacles, etc.  In addition, the narrowness of the hull's bow/stern (low prismatic coefficient) allows this boat to get up to speed from a stand-still very quickly, which adds to the fun-factor when rock-gardening along the coast.  Of course there’s always a downside to every upside – the top end cruising speed in calm water seemed lower to me in the Reflection compared to more standard-shaped kayaks of similar length, boats which retain more hull volume below the waterline out toward the ends. This is an expected and reasonable trade-off in my opinion.

We had some following seas during my demo paddle – but nothing big to really show how the Reflection’s rocker and wide mid-section might dance and carve on a wave.  WAVES and SURF are certainly what the boat is made for.  I expect it would be exceptional as a park-and-play boat on a big standing wave or messing about in some long-wavelength shore break. Despite the narrowness of the ends below the waterline, the boat has a large amount of reserve buoyancy above the waterline. From the photos you can see the bulbous fore and aft decks that rise higher than the cockpit rim, somewhat like a whitewater creeking boat.  Am sure this buoyancy keeps it lively and maneuverable, resisting burying in a wave.  Unfortunately, most of these thoughts have to be conjecture since it was a mild November day in Connecticut when I tested the boat – but looking at west-coast videos of the boat in conditions gives you a sense how the fat mid-section, big rocker, and tapered hull make for a fun surfing machine. It seems to have a definite edge in the surfing department judging by this remarkable video of a coastal surfing competition showing the Reflection carving on wave faces (changing direction left and right like a surf kayak), spinning to paddle in reverse on the crests, even rising back up the wave to the sweet spot after it’s been down in the trough! All things that are tough to do in most sea kayaks in shore-breaking surf (paddler power and skill undoubtedly have a lot to do with the moves in this video, but you get the idea). See Video - note especially the guy in the lime green boat at 4:37 - wow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkO3Rsdi3dE

Fit/Finish:  The Reflection has a comfy keyhole cockpit, foam seat, and flat/lowish thigh braces – perfect for the snug responsiveness you’d want for a surf session.  This setup was OK for a regular day-trip (going from A to B), but I might prefer higher thigh braces for a somewhat looser cockpit feel if I was using the Reflection as my do-everything kayak. Distance paddling is not what this boat is made for so that trade-off is understood.  The skeg is located ODDLY directly behind the cockpit, taking up one side of the day-hatch compartment.  Deploying the skeg was smooth and flawless. The effect on the boat when fully deployed was quite mild – owing to its location. It did help some to fight weather cocking, but not nearly as much as a standard skeg.  Regardless, the boat’s maneuverability and stiff secondary stability makes edging the boat to fight weather cocking easy and effective. Am not entirely sure what affect the skeg would have on the face of a wave – certainly it would retain most of its turning ability.  The design, paint job, and finish on the boat are very cool – really looks like a custom kayak and not one off an assembly line as some boats do. 




Sterling Reflection cockpit

That’s it – something to consider if you’re in the market for a rough water kayak. Although more of a specialized craft than some, it was fun to paddle in mild conditions too.

Sterling Reflection kayak Groton CT

Sea Kayak Spray Skirts – Review of Snapdragon’s Glacier Trek Breathable

Counting them up, I realize I’ve owned ten (10) spray skirts from various manufactures over the years  - from BushSport, Mountain Surf, Seals, Snapdragon, and Reed.  Most have been the full-neoprene kind, which are touted as the most water-tight for rough sea conditions.  When I’ve sold my kayaks, I’ve tended to “sweeten the deal” by including a sprayskirt, so have kept only a few.  Recently I wanted a skirt that was more comfortable for mellow conditions – so my latest is a touring spray skirt with a neoprene deck and Goretex tunnel made by Snapdragon.  Turns out it’s a great all-around spray skirt and well worth a closer look by all sea kayakers.

Snapdragon Glacier Trek Sprayskirt - and others to compare

 

My earliest spray skirt was a nylon “summer” conditions one that came with the first sea kayak I bought. It had a comfortable, adjustable Velcro collar –but leaked like a sieve.  So, in short order I switched to full-neoprene – and never looked back.  BushSport was my first. It lasted a decade but took a beating over the years – mostly from dragging boats over the deck during rescues. I bought Snapdragon’s full-neoprene skirts for my next two boats and was glad I made the change. The Snapdragon skirts are easier to attach to the cockpit than other skirts because of the more stretchy “Supratrex” neoprene fabric used for the deck material.  Bill and Janice Lozano of Atlantic Kayak Tours were early fans of Snapdragon who can take the credit for turning a lot of sea kayakers on to this brand.

 

Snapdragon Glacier Trek Breathable (4 Stars):

The reason I decided to go back to a non-neoprene tunnel when purchasing Snapdragon's Glacier Trek was to eliminate some of the guess work involved in picking the proper tunnel size (and to accommodate the size of my mid-section which seems to vary in response to seasonal changes in diet….).  I also wanted something that would be more comfortable in calm conditions. Like most of their sea kayak line of skirts, Snapdragon’s Glacier Trek has the Suptratex Neoprene deck so is easy to attach to the coaming. And despite the Goretex/Velcro tunnel, I find it is as water tight as a full-neoprene tunnel when you synch it down.  Plus you can loosen it on flat water which adds noticeably to comfort and torso rotation. I got a size bigger than my waist (I think the biggest they make) to make it super loose when I want to. Then I synch the Velcro and fold the fabric a bit to get a tight seal.  To date this is my favorite spray skirt.

 

Reed Aquatherm (4 Stars):

After attending a UK kayaking event, I purchased the first of my Reed Spray Skirts.  I think every kayaker should own a Reed skirt if they can at some point – especially if they have a kayak with the smaller “ocean” cockpit (Greenland cockpit). The Reed skirts are made with a thin, stretchy, rubberized fabric (Aquatherm) and thinner bungee that is super easy to take on and off.  The ocean cockpit version is especially easy to put on because it has a single strand of thin bungee versus the keyhole’s double-strand.  The Reed skirts are comfortable, durable, easy to pack, and dry more quickly than neoprene. After many years of use I found my Reed skirts to be as durable as the thicker neoprene. Plus Reed will send you some fabric repair tape which easily fixes holes or wear spots and retains flexibility (unlike AquaSeal repair glue which does not stretch once dried).

Seals (3 stars):

I purchased a custom-made skirt from Seals for a surf boat I owned.  It works fine – the best feature to me is the added strap/buckle on the grab loop so you can easily clip it to a line for drying, a nice feature.  Seals is a New York-based company and has good customer support I’ve found.  Many whitewater paddlers prefer their whitewater-specific spray skirts, which have a thick rubber rand and fit well on plastic boats.  However, for sea kayaking my preference has been for the Snapdragon skirts, which seem a little more durable to me and the stretchy Supratrex neoprene is a nice feature.

Sherpak Kayak Roller Suction Mount – Review

In my never-ending quest to minimize boat-loading effort I bought THIS thing by Seattle Sports, the "Sherpak Boat Roller". A reasonable deal at $40.   It lacks sides, which can be reassuring if you’re loading a boat. (I added two short lengths of ½ PVC pipe with zip-ties and nylon accessory cord as a cross-member for strength – which…didn’t help actually).  

In Use - I've found the Sherpak Kayak Roller doesn't work well – suction cups have a tendency to come off at times, TOTAL nightmare when your boat is up-ended against your car. Plus my jerry-rigged sides did nothing to prevent the boat from sliding off the sides.

Maybe the K-Rack Kayak Loader from Australia (below) works better?  But think I’ll stay away from suction-cup mounted kayak loading systems for now.

Sherpak Kayak Roller with PVC side-brackets



Sherpak showing placement on my rear window.

 

From Sherpak Website - in action

K-Rack Kayak Loader from Australia

Foldable Kayak Cart - Modification to Prevent it Collapsing over Curbs !

Another in my line of El-Cheapo fixes for semi-functional kayaking gear.  A trip to Home Depot for $3 worth of supplies (short length of 1/2” PVC pipe and some #10 nuts/bolts) was all it took to solidify my collapsing kayak cart.  Many kayakers have one of these at some point I expect – a foldable kayak cart.  They work GREAT on flat surfaces, but if you have to go over a curb or some larger obstacles they are prone to collapsing – THUD, WHAM, you’re stopped dead in your tracks.  Rather than shelling out another $150 for a non-foldable cart (of which there are many), just adding a bar to stop this is easy. The top-tube of many foldable kayak carts already have pre-drilled holes (not sure why) so the only drilling I had to do was in the soft PVC pipe.

Easy Peasy.

 

1/2" PVC pipe and two bolts - stops kayak cart collapse

Underside

 

Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure to fill a Leaky Kayak Deck Fitting

Took delivery of a new Romany Kayak in 2008 only to find a leaky rear compartment – perhaps a cup or two of water would get in over the course of a several hour paddle. Like many small leaks, the origin was a mystery until I filled the rear hatch with water and moved the boat around – a small stream of water was trickling out of one of the deck fittings!  NDK makes boats with their own fittings and sometimes with the Valley Canoe Products deck fittings – mine had the NDK kind, which are covered below with a liberal amount of fiberglass and resin. So there was no visible cracks or openings above or below the fitting that I could see – so the reason for the leak was a complete mystery.  Speaking to my buddy Ira at Atlantic Kayak Tours, he mentioned a product known as "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure". Before drilling out the fitting or doing a messy epoxy/gel-coat job, I thought I’d give this a try.

The stuff comes in a small bottle and has the consistency and appearance of skim milk – very watery.  I put maybe 5 or 6 drops of this stuff around the outside edge of the fitting – no more. To be honest, I had nearly zero expectations that this would work – but miraculously it did!  The liquid’s watery consistency flows easily into the cracks and seals them up.   Now 5 years later I can report that the hatch is still water tight and bone dry.  Far and away the easiest kayak repair I've ever done.

Of course any visible crack or hole in the kayak requires fiberglass/resin and a bigger job. But if you have a tiny, mysterious leak – I would try Captain Tolley’s first.

Oh No! Leak Identified at the Deck Fitting!

No apparent holes/cracks - a brand new boat

 

Captain Tolley's - THIS is the stuff

Easy Knee Tube for Under-Deck Kayak Bailing Pump

Something I made in 2008 for a new boat I was reluctant to modify in a substantial way - this knee tube is just for holding a bailing pump under the deck.  Got a fishing rod holder from West Marine, shaped the edges a bit so it would fit snug under the deck, then used 3M Dual-Lock Tape (same as used for the EZ Pass on your car) to secure it under the deck.  Works reasonably well and removable.

Requires that you roll some foam or duct tape around the pump so that it fits snug. Also, the fishing rod holder I used was a bit wider than some, got this one free of charge at West Marine in Norwalk because they were throwing out a fishing rod display rack. Some of the retail rod holders are too narrow - check before you buy.

Fishing Rod Holder and 3M Dual Lock

Dremel tool to Remove some of the Lip to fit beneath Deck




Pump with some foam/tape around it so it fits in Snug

El-Cheapo Knee Tube secured under Deck

My Paddling Videos

Links to all my YouTube Paddling Videos in One Place:

Downwind Run from Scotch Caps to Mamaroneck, NY

Scotch Caps Downwind Run

http://youtu.be/QMVeO3KEvnU
 

Paddling Jones Inlet – with Alan and Jerry:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUAUiFuyttU

Kayaking the New “Old Inlet” – Fire Island, NY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXHMbZyjJ5c

Breaking Out of Max Ebb Current – Moriches Inlet, NY:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rg3W5QW4t6Y

Clapotis by Fire Island Inlet – North Side:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DARfWOXzfJg

Jones Inlet Inside – Sea Kayak Surfing the Swell:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FIOIf6Wvh18

Napatree Pre-Irene – Two Kayaks Riding Same Wave:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFwRWJ-JAoo

Napatree Pre-Irene – Various Kayak Rides:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOHNgKPB6jw

Napatree Rock Slide – Pre-Irene Swell:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWWXTHdA4r4

SKUK Coast Guard Rescue Demonstration – May 2007:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TS17OuhnV7M

Blue Hill Falls 2007 – Paddling in the Current by the Bridge at Route 175:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOA5V7dWbUs

Orchard Beach to Huckleberry Island:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aNKOVwgkOfc

Paddling from Point Lookout to Jones Inlet Breakwater - Jim, Alan, and Jerry

Got some good photos and videos with the GoPro.  Drove out to Point Lookout from Mamaroneck  with fellow sea kayakers Alan and Jerry.  As usual, no other kayakers out there. A mellow day until the wind picked up and some lumpy water by the breakwater where the ebb current started to flow. Then a LONG slog back - perhaps 2 hours after slack water the ebb is really booking past Point Lookout's marinas. Had to hug the shoreline to find eddies in order to make any progress. A great day on the water.  Photos below and link to YouTube video here:

VIDEO: Alan, Jerry and Jim Paddle Point Lookout to Jones Inlet

Alan, Jim, and Jerry - On the Way to Jones Inlet

Surfing the Ebb by the Jones Inlet Breakwater

Mecox Bay Inlet - Constructed Berm Post-Sandy (8.15.13)

Mecox Bay is sometimes open to the Atlantic - but the Town has bermed the inlet recently. Scouting for openings to paddle through - seems at present the same is true for Sagaponack Pond  and Georgica Pond just east of Mecox.  Was out that way doing work for the power authority and did a bit of scouting.

Mecox Bay no longer open to the Atlantic, new-ish looking berm

The Best Sea Kayaking Sun Hat Currently on the Market – the Outdoor Research "Oasis Sombrero”

My current favorite hat is the Outdoor Research "Oasis Sombrero". Whether you’re a fair-skinned kayaker (like me) or not, a key feature of a good sea kayaking sun hat is a wide brim that will stay down when the wind blows.

In the past I've favored the Watership Trading Companie sun hats, including their “Vineyard Haven” and “Seabird” hats because of their wide, sun-blocking brims. So for years I kept my trusty thick-cotton Watership Trading Seabird alive with repairs to the head band and chin strap.  The reason I liked the hat was actually due to its stiff cotton fabric which helped the brim to stay down in wind, wet or dry. Eventually had to replace it, so bought the company’s newer version of the Seabird made from nylon fabric.  On paper it seemed great – new nylon fabric dries fast, new floating material in the brim, identical overall shape...  But it just didn’t hold up to the wind – despite fitting well, the brim would flip up in even a moderate headwind – eliminating its sun protection and making me look like the guy from F-Troop.  This is such a universal problem with sun hats (brims flipping up in wind) that I was psyched to find OR’s Oasis hat. Either due to the shape of the Oasis or the construction of the brim, wind has little effect on it. Looks a bit like the Gorton’s Fisherman style hat (downward facing brim) so that might be the key to its wind resistance. Unlike a fisherman’s hat though, the brim is fairly wide even in the front so it offers good sun protection.

My only word of advice to Outdoor Research is – could you make a Men’s version?  That’s right, the Oasis is listed as a women’s hat (?).  I’ve been secure enough to wear this hat in gender-neutral gray (despite the embossed flower in the back…).  Outdoor Research has a few men’s hats with wider brims but nothing equivalent to the Oasis Sombrero!  All of their men’s hats I’ve seen are the floppity kind – more than a light breeze will flip up the brim.

Paddling the New "Old Inlet" at Fire Island - Breach in the National Seashore from Hurricane Sandy

Several breaches in the Long Island Barrier Island chain occurred during Hurricane Sandy - one within the Fire Island National Seashore is known as "Old Inlet" because it has been alternately open and closed over the course of the last 2 centuries. A good thing for Bay water quality apparently and a really interesting place to paddle (not least because there's less danger of getting hit by a motor boat than at the official inlets).   Decided to paddle it with the GoPro Camera - click here for VIDEO LINK to "Old Inlet" Paddling Video. 

"Old Inlet" at Fire Island Paddling

Before and After Sandy - breach

From the Brookhaven/Southaven Blog: "On Fire Island directly opposite Brookhaven hamlet and the village of Bellport is a section of beach known as "Old Inlet." Between 1763-1827, this area had a wide inlet from the bay to the ocean. This inlet was important in the establishment of Bellport as a minor seaport. In about 1827, it closed up, apparently due to a ship becoming grounded in it. During the worst storms, minor ocean wash-over sometimes occurs in the region, running to the bay. And apparently, it has opened as a minor inlet several times since 1827, but mother nature quickly closed it up."