Valley Gemini SP Kayak Review

Turns out 15 feet is not too short for a sea kayak.  And it’s more maneuverable than all other sea kayaks I've paddled - even short ones like the Valley Avocet, the SKUK Romany, the P&H Delphin, and the Tiderace Xtra…

Valley Gemini SP

Take Home Points:

Pros:

·         Light weight (vacuum bagged fiberglass layup)

·         Super maneuverable

·         Super-easy to edge (low initial stability)

·         Comfy cockpit – better thigh braces, roomier than low volume boats

·         Surfs nicely, good volume/buoyancy and hard chine

·         New small day hatch – easy to attach, big enough

·         14’10” is not too short for a sea kayak

Cons:

·         Valley plastic seat (not comfortable or ergonomic for me)

·         Low initial stability (a pro for some, con for others)

·         Low speed – not a good choice for distance paddling
·         Skeg-dependent boat

·         Huge rear hatch – unnecessary in a play-boat, hard to put on

I demoed the Valley Gemini SP a few years ago and thought “wow, this is cool and different.” I'd paddled a lot of "play-at-sea" style kayaks by then and eventually bought a Gemini - am glad I did. If you're looking to make the move to a shorter boat, the Gemini SP serves the play-boat function better than most.

When I started paddling, unless you were a traditional Greenland kayak enthusiast, you really only had two categories of sea kayak to choose from:  British style boats (e.g. Valley/NDK/P&H), which were generally better suited to rougher water, and the American or "West Coast" style kayaks (e.g. Necky/Wilderness Systems) which tended to have rudders and less hull rocker so were more geared to distance paddling or island hopping/camping.  Since that time the differences between these two broad categories of boats has blurred – American kayak manufacturers have incorporated many of the elements of British boats (rocker, skegs, harder chines) as a larger number of people have become interested in bumpy water. On the other side of the Atlantic, some British manufacturers are branching out more into fitness/distance kayaks (e.g. Valley Rapier,Rockpool Taran) – adopting some of the elements of surf skis or revisiting elements of racing kayaks like the Kirton Inuk (i.e. less rocker, high-foredecks for knee movement, plumb bows).  So it’s all a mish-mosh these days - greater and greater diversity in design.

An additional new sub-category of sea kayak of late is the shorter play-boat style. If you find yourself diverging towards the "bumpy water enthusiast" sea kayaking camp, as opposed to the "distance/speed" or "Greenland" camps, you may choose to look for a shorter, more maneuverable boat. The first of these shorter sea kayaks was really the Romany – a shorter version of Nigel Dennis’s longer Explorer kayak that was intended (as I understand it) for coaches and students in the rough waters off Wales. That boat set the bar pretty high, and for some years (until Valley came out with its own version – the Avocet) no one else was making "real" sea kayaks under 17' in length.  Even recent play-at-sea kayaks inspired (probably) by the Romany have been reluctant to go any shorter than 16’ – the P&H Delphin is 16’, the Tiderace Xtra (their smallest boat) is still only 16.5’.  Sure there are plastic rec-boats for beginners (P&H Orca) or modified whitewater boats (P&H Hammer) that are under 16' in length - both would be excellent "park-and-play-boats" I expect, but whether these are true "sea kayaks" is debatable.   So with all this in mind, into the ever-widening assortment of sea kayak designs comes a fairly radical departure – the Gemini SP. It looks like a true sea kayak (narrow, fiberglass, pointy at both ends, skeg, hatches) but it is only 14’10” in length and has plenty of rocker.

Handling:

Maneuverability - The SP is a joy to maneuver in tight places, catch waves or explore the coast line. This is what the boat is meant for and where the boat shines. If you enjoy using all your strokes and edging and having an immediate response from your kayak - this boat is for you. That's something I value in a kayak and the boat doesn't disappoint. The combination of short length and deeper “V” cross section of the hull adds measurably to the SP’s maneuverability – edging the boat is effortless.  I've found this a lot of fun – you can turn this boat 180 degrees in a flash. Experienced paddlers with good support strokes will crank it around with ease, a definite plus when rock-hopping or playing in bumpy water.  By the same token, novice paddlers may find the boat somewhat tippy at first.

Tracking - The flip-side to maneuverability is tracking of course.  When not playing around in bumpy water or winding up a sinuous tidal creek, you may find yourself relying on the skeg in the Gemini SP. To prevent this unusually short boat from spinning like a top, Valley gave the SP a somewhat deeper “V” hull cross-section than other kayaks to aid in tracking. The result is a boat that paddles fairly straight on flat water but definitely relies on the skeg in wind.  I’d say its directional stability is somewhat better than the Valley Pintail on flat water with no wind (which is a good thing), but about equal to the Pintail (i.e. less than most other kayaks) under most conditions. For those who don't know the Pintail, this means it's very "turny". So, to a larger degree than most traditional sea kayaks, the Gemini is a skeg-dependent boat if you're trying to really "get somewhere" in a cross-wind - get a pebble in the skeg box and you’ll soon feel like clearing it. This is an acceptable trade-off for a short, maneuverable boat in my opinion. Valley's latest skeg setup itself operates flawlessly and the slider doesn’t protrude into the left knee too much.

Speed - If your primary goal in sea kayaking is to cover many miles on straight journeys (as is certainly the case for many sea kayakers) you wouldn't be looking at the Gemini SP in the first place. In mild conditions the Gemini feels somewhat slower than other boats, not hugely so, but enough that I wouldn't choose it for a journey.  But it keeps up fine with longer kayaks on shorter day paddles. When sea conditions pick up and the advantage of boat length lessens, the SP may even out-paddle the group. (Head-winds or following seas are the great "leveler" when it comes to paddling speed I find - as conditions worsen, how you paddle matters more than what boat you're in).

Surf - In the bumpy conditions I can find in my local waters (boat wakes and locally-generated waves in Long Island Sound) the SP excels - the boat can catch rides and turn on a wave more easily than other sea kayaks. The Gemini is "squirrely" on a wave and easier to change directions with aggressive edging. So the Gemini is excellent for steeper waves, playing in/near shorebreak or for riding shorter wavelength waves in following seas.  But to be fair, kayaks longer than the Gemini will catch more rides on longer-wavelength waves in following seas. I've found the SP's short length makes it a bit more of a struggle to get on the long-wavelength stuff, something some kayakers (and surf-ski paddlers) like to do. And if you have a strong upper body and bigger water is your primary interest, a slightly longer/bigger kayak would probably better fit your needs (Xtra/Xcite, Romany Surf, Avocet, Delphin). These boats would be easier to paddle out to the big features (tideraces/ ocean swell) and their added volume/length can probably take advantage of big conditions with less effort than the Gemini.  But for local bumpy water closer to shore, I'd say the SP is a better choice - more fun.  The SP’s easy maneuverability requires a bit more attention to rudder strokes and sweeps when paddling in conditions, but that's part of the fun.

One minor thing to be aware of, if you’re used to a flat-bottom boat that is a stable platform when entering/exiting your kayak, the Gemini SP’s “V” hull will be tippier than you’re used to. I was accustomed to plunking my butt down in my Romany in shallow water without the slightest concern for its stability and adjusting footpegs while on the water was easy. But in the Gemini, I have to take a bit more care since the “V” will tip the boat one way or the other – got me unexpectedly wet a few times.

Fit:

The cockpit has more room than many British style kayaks – more space for the knees in front of the seat. This helps forward paddling and will allow both larger and smaller paddlers to enjoy the boat. I’m 5’10, 185 lbs and size 10 feet – the boat fits me fine.  The cockpit coaming is decent in the Gemini but not as good as the Tiderace/Rockpool boats which (in my opinion) have a superior shape and design. These boats have more centered thigh grips set closer together, higher up, and located a bit closer to the torso than the Gemini. This allows a more knees-up position in these other boats (even moreso than in the Gemini) that adds to forward stroke efficiency and places the thigh-grip part of the coaming at mid-thigh - not down by the knee as is unfortunately more the case with the Gemini. So the thigh grips could be improved on the Gemini, but they are a definite improvement over many older keyhole cockpit designs.  If I had my way, all sea kayak manufacturers would adopt the design of the Tiderace/Rockpool cockpit coaming.  Lastly, the coaming height behind the seat on the Gemini is higher than some boats - if you do a lot of lay-back rolls you may have to adjust a little.

Construction/Outfitting:

Overall the construction and outfitting of the SP is excellent as in all Valley boats past and present.  One pleasant surprise is the roughly 7-inch day hatch. I’d thought it might be too small but it accommodates all the gear I need access to while on the water plus it’s actually easier than standard (larger) day hatches to close, readily doable with just one hand. The rear hatch, on the other hand, is huge overkill in my opinion – it’s actually larger than the large oval hatches on Valley’s big touring boats! Why such a big hatch on a play-boat?  Plus it’s heavy and hard to put on – instead I’d have put the same 10” round hatch as Valley spec'd for the bow. A mystery.  My second beef with all the current Valley boats is the one-size-fits-all plastic seat. Seat comfort and functionality are a personal thing - some may like the Valley seat, but for me it is a bad fit. I find it insufficiently deep front-to-back and not flat (level) enough, and rather than widening at the front to accommodate the spread of the thighs as you sit with feet on pegs, to me if feels constrictive at the front.  Discarding the removable hip-braces helped a bit but for me it was still no good. As a reference, I find the standard SKUK Romany/Explorer seats comfortable and even tolerated the old-style ocean cockpit Valley Anas Acuta/Pintail seats.  So I swapped out the standard plastic seat for a foam seat (available as an option from VCP) which is much better. Valley should revisit their plastic seat in my opinion – I remember when the Nordkapp LV first came out I loved it, amazing boat. A few years later I tried an LV again after they’d swapped out all their boats’ seats for the new plastic one-size-fits-all version – suddenly the LV became tight in the thighs (and I’m a pretty average sized person) and paddled poorly for me. I would strongly encourage Valley to make something like SKUK’s latest seat which is fabulous – the SKUK High Performance Seat is a flatter, neutral seat with an integral minimalist back-stop.  You can always swap out a seat in a sea kayak, so this was not a deal-breaker for me.  Lastly, the Gemini’s light weight is great – noticeably easier to haul around on dry land than all other fiberglass sea kayaks I’ve owned - a major plus in my opinion.  The trade-off is a somewhat more flexible hull than heavier lay-up boats. With the foam seat directly on the hull in the Gemini, I can feel the hull flex a bit under my seat in bumpy water and if you run over a submerged rock you'll definitely feel it. For me, this is an acceptable trade-off and the hull is certainly stiffer than some kevlar boats I've been in.  Some may want to keep the standard plastic seat for this reason (if they can tolerate it) because it’s hung from the deck so your weight is not on the hull. As a comparison, I also have a foam seat in my Romany and there’s no hull flex – of course the Romany is way heavier than the Gemini.

Final Thoughts:

For me the impetus to buy the Gemini SP was an injured shoulder. In order to stay in the sport I needed something lighter weight that would be easier to move around on land and that might also be good at poking around close to shore on low mileage paddles. My previous love was rough water sea kayaking, surf, tide races, etc. big water stuff.  Though that type of paddling is now largely in my past, my former preference for bumpy water factored into my interest in the Gemini SP. I’m glad I got the boat and would encourage all paddlers to try it.  If you have a longer touring boat, the SP would be a great second boat to have for playing in rough water.  It would also be a good “do-everything” boat if most of your paddling is rock-gardening, surf, and shorter coastal exploring. One last note – the “sister boat” the Gemini ST has a different hull – less rocker and volume.  I've never tried the ST, but expect it would suit those looking for a light, maneuverable boat with improved tracking and less emphasis on surf.

Paddlelogic Trailtreker Kayak Cart REVIEW - the BEST of the rest

My latest kayak cart and easily the best I've owned.  Made by "Paddlelogic" in upstate NY.  Worth the money (despite the relatively high cost of $150) if you have back/shoulder issues (as I do) which make moving the boat around hard.  This thing is super light weight, has no metal bearings to rust (just a stainless steal axle with plastic bushings), slides on/off easily, has foam (not air) tires so won't deflate, and can be dismantled pretty quickly for stowage in your boat.  Had this thing up in Cape Cod and often found it easiest to put in my boat, rather than return it to my car. The put-ins can be far from the parking area and having the ability to put this in the rear hatch is great.  People were intrigued as I just rolled the thing straight into the water without fear of rust, slid it off the stern, stowed it and paddled away.  Several asked me where to get one.  I found that stowing in a basic sea kayak required putting all the pieces in the rear hatch individually. To prevent the metal axle from sliding around and damaging the interior of my fiberglass kayak hatch, I drilled holes in the two small blocks of foam Paddlelogic mails with the cart to protect the ends of the axle, and threaded them through the attachment line so I wouldn't lose them.  HIGHLY RECOMMENDED CART.

TrailTreker Cart - 24" axle

Foam blocks to protect the ends of the axle for stowing

Dismantled and ready for stowing in rear hatch

Kayaking Forward Stroke Technique - to Avoid Wrist Pain

Forward Stroke with Attention to Form

My forward stroke technique isn't perfect by any means - but if you read enough articles and take enough classes over the years, you learn a few things. A paddling friend, new to sea kayaking, is having wrist pain recently. So I sent him some pointers (see sequenced photo slides of forward stroke below):

Hey Colin - bummer about the wrists, take a break and see how it goes. I've not had wrist pain from paddling myself but it's a common complaint. As you suggested, bent-shaft paddles can help wrist pain, so you could definitely try that.  But there's also typically something off (improper) about your forward stroke if you're getting wrist pain (or elbow pain/tendonitis). Your left wrist is worse you say - so I expect you're correct in thinking it's related to gripping the shaft too firmly.  Gripping the top hand during the non-active phase is definitely a typical cause of wrist problems.  I could probably give you some pointers if I saw your stroke.

Two key things to work on for your forward stroke are torso rotation and keeping your top hand (high hand) relaxed. If you feather your paddle you'll definitely need to loosen the grip on the top hand, especially the left if that's your non-control hand. Some people teach the forward stroke with the proverb "Lefty loosey, Righty tighty" to remind you to keep the shaft loose in the left hand (if you're right-handed). Also try opening your fingers on the top (high) hand as you push forward and across, to force yourself to keep your top hand relaxed during that part of the stroke. Retain that loose grip as the top hand transitions to the active one, plant the paddle forward by your toes (still with a loose grip) and only grip the shaft firmly again at the last minute, after the blade's fully submerged.  This pumping action (firm grip, loose grip, etc.) helps prevent over-gripping and wrist problems for most people.

The second thing that is key to the forward stroke is torso rotation, and one way I've found to build "muscle memory" for this is to keep your elbows from bending through the stroke too much.  Bending at the elbows means you're using your arms too much and not your torso. Instead, practice paddling a bit like "Frankenstein" whenever you think of it, as if your elbows can't bend (not fully straight arms but only slightly bent) - keep your arms this way as you sweep the active blade through the water and push the top hand across. This forces you to rotate your torso.  (Once you get the hang of it, you can reintroduce some bend to the arms - so you look less like Frankenstein).  Your top hand will come across at eye level and will stay at that height all the way across the entire time - don't let it drop down at the end of the stroke.  Instead keep it high until the active blade is at your hip, then lift the active blade out of the water by raising the onside hand, NOT by dropping your top hand down.  Dropping the top hand at the end of the stroke scoops water which is bad and can torque the wrist.  In addition to adding power and stamina to your stroke by forcing more torso rotation, following this description should help lessen strain on the wrists. Try watching some surf ski or racing paddlers on YouTube if this description isn't clear - their form is usually very good.  A great resource is Atlantic Kayak Tours' "Expert Center" which has tips on the Forward Stroke among many topics.

You've probably heard this stuff before - but taking time to break it down and practice is something sea kayakers spend many years perfecting - forever really. The slides below show attention to form - you won't paddle like this all day, but whenever you think of it try this for 10-20 strokes to work on form.  Thing is, since you got into whitewater paddling first a few years ago, I expect you're using a wider variety of strokes but may not have given too much thought to Forward Stroke form.  Sea kayakers can get away with a smaller set of strokes, but getting an efficient forward stroke is critical because they have to keep it up a long time (and to avoid stress injuries).

Later - JIM

CLICK ON 1ST SLIDE TO BEGIN SEQUENCE SHOWING FORWARD STROKE STEPS:

Slide 1

Slide 2

Slide 3

Slide 4

Slide 5

Slide 6

Slide 7

In Defense of the SKUK Romany Kayak – Review



Not that the Romany needs defending exactly, but it’s not a new design.  And I’ve written about other kayaks I’ve demoed on this blog, but not yet about the kayak I own. The two flagship kayaks of the SKUK (NDK) line remain the Romany and the Explorer – neither has changed much since their release in the early 1990’s. I’ve owned both and they are the only kayaks that I purchased new, custom ordered from the UK. Other boats I’ve owned have come and gone – good boats that I’ve thoroughly enjoyed. But I’ve still kept the Romany and am unlikely to part with it.  Here's why:

The hull is a friendly design – comfortable for those new to the sport and one that increasingly shows its value as a paddler’s skills improve. The Romany has enough rocker to be fun and responsive in conditions, while also remaining straight-running even without using the skeg. It has a boxy chine to carve and maneuver in following seas or when surfing, but is more gentle than some of the recent kayak designs that respond sharply to edging. The boat is reassuring in big conditions – whether your energy is high and you’re attacking the surf, or at the end of a long day and your goal is to get home.  Other kayaks may excel at certain times because of the choices the boat's designer made – some are better at distance paddling, some are more sharply responsive in surf, some may handle beam waves with a bit more ease. But these same kayaks can also become a burden at times – those with too much rocker are hard to keep straight, those with fully rounded chines lack a responsive edge to support aggressive sweep strokes, those with an even flatter cross-section may suffer more leeway in high winds.  The Romany hull is a thoughtful compromise that solidly performs all that a skilled paddler can throw at it while not excelling in any one area to the detriment of another. For this reason, having such a boat is (in my opinion) a good decision for all sea kayakers. Whether it is the only boat you own, or the “workhorse” in your fleet to use when you need a reliable craft, the Romany is a great choice.

They’re also pretty bomb-proof.  Though heavy, I’ve bashed my SKUK boats around and they’re solidly built and largely maintenance free.  In my experience the round hatches are bone dry no matter how rough the conditions are.  The boat doesn’t have any fiddly parts or an odd layout – the skeg slider is where it should be; the deck lines are well arranged – they avoid the day hatch area so you can put the cover back on easily (for example); the thigh braces and seat are simple, functional, and ergonomic for an active paddler.  The thing just works well – Nigel Dennis got it right the first time and clearly sees no reason to make substantial changes to the boat. And of course with the popularity of the SKUK boats among seasoned paddlers, it seems every other manufacturer has incorporated some of the Romany/Explorer design elements into their own boats - imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.  Despite a lot of imitators, no one has created anything that's quite as good as the original – the Romany and Explorer remain at the top of the short list of rough water sea kayaks.

There are tons of Romany’s out there among experienced sea kayakers, yet you don’t see too many for sale.  The reason for this is obvious I think – once you own one you don't want to part with it. In fact, Sea Kayaker Magazine voted the Romany the “Best Day/Weekend Kayak” and “Best Rough-Water Kayak” in their 2011 Readers Choice awards.  For a design that hasn’t changed in 20 years, that’s saying something.

RUNNING LIST of Top Tips & Handy Hints (observations gathered over the years)

Not My Kayak - but I did own a Pintail once...

·       If you're just going out for a short day paddle and don't want your water bottle, radio etc. banging around in your day hatch, put them in an old clear PVC drybag (clear, stiff, thick plastic ones) kept unclipped/open in the hatch. That old style of drybag provides good shock-absorption for stuff and you can still get at things easily while on the water.

·         When paddling in a group, consider the advantages of sharing large-size safety gear -  not everyone needs to bring spare paddles, a wind shelter, extra water/clothing, etc. - as long as there's enough to go around. Why weigh down everyone's boat unnecessarily. 

·         Waterproof nautical maps are worth the extra few bucks – and mostly can be used bare on your deck under the bungees.  But if in the surf zone, putting them away or in a map case secured to the deck is wise because they can wash off from under the bungees.

·         “Winds Come, Tides Go” – a north wind is coming from the north, a north tide/current is going to (flowing towards) north.

·         With wind at your back, the area of low pressure is to your left (in northern hemisphere). Helpful for tracking storms.

·         Keep a clear deck as much as possible in rough water. Paddles and pumps and water bottles on deck impede rescues (self and assisting) , can hamper low angle strokes, and often shift or break loose.  Under deck, in hatch, or on-person alternatives are preferred in most cases.

·         After a tow, if still in bumpy conditions, just stuff the line in a loose bundle down the front of your pfd.  Repack your tow line bag later in calm water.

·         Those 8x11 sheets of cheap plastic laminating film (from Office Max or Staples) work for sealing printed tide tables or charts you’ve gotten from the computer.  But after one or two uses, they leak. 

·         Bow Draw, Side-Slip, Hanging Draw, Draw on the Move, Stern Draw… are all the same thing just at different locations up and down the side of your boat.  You’re pulling water towards the boat by angling the blade – differs only in what part of the boat you want to draw.

·         As the boat slows during a hanging draw stroke (side slip), you must gradually move the position of the paddle forwards in response to the reduction in speed. Otherwise the hanging draw becomes a stern draw. (Friction of bow wave reduces as speed slows so bow gets looser).

·         If your stern rudder stroke is weak, try raising your offside hand – puts more blade in contact with moving water.

·         RV Roof Repair Tape (Eterna Bond) works well as an emergency patch – better than Duct tape or Denzo tape.

·         Check and Replace items in your First Aid kit on a regular basis – ibuprofen, band-aids, etc.

·         If you’re the tower in an assisted tow, hook your carabiner to the victim’s boat, but only under the front deck line of the assistant’s boat. This way the assistant can pull himself up along the victim's boat to unhook the tow if need be.

·         The victim has to lean hard onto the rescuer’s boat during a contact tow. Otherwise, it will be difficult for the rescuer to paddler straight.

·         For effective reverse paddling, slap the back face of the paddle onto the water behind you and push down, bringing the off-side hand up high (vertically) out over that side of the boat – this will help create a mirror image of a high-angle forward stroke, but in reverse. Otherwise, your reverse paddling will be a series of low angle reverse sweeps making it harder to go straight.

·         When surfing a wave, if your bow is headed to the right (boat is beginning to broach) your stern rudder (on left side) will be more effective if you edge on the side away from the paddle (edge to right).  Seems counterintuitive and is harder to do, but works better.  By contrast, if you edge on the same side as the stern rudder, i.e. edging on the paddle side (which feels more natural), the shape of kayak hull will reinforce the broach, not fight it.

·         A small monocular in your pfd is helpful to read buoy numbers for navigation.

·         A spare paddle should be easy to assemble quickly when you need it – otherwise it’s not an effective piece of safety equipment.

·         When forward paddling, it's OK to allow the top hand to cross the center line of the kayak – shows you’re rotating the torso. Keep that top hand high to avoid scooping up water with the active blade at the end of the stroke.

·         Ankle-high booties prevent submerged objects (rocks, etc.) from cutting your ankles.

·         Loosen the back band and push the footpegs forward for comfort on distance paddles.

·         Always talk (however briefly) before you leave the beach to discuss the float plan and agree on a VHF channel (if you’re using radios).

 ·         Never leave a group of paddlers without telling someone (preferably several people) that you're breaking off from the group and heading home (or wherever).

·         Kayak fishing is fun, but it’s not easy landing a fish from a closed cockpit boat and dealing with all the gear without something going amiss…Fishing kayaks are wide and have open cockpits for a reason.

·         Some strong paddlers with good stamina and endurance on flatwater are uncomfortable in even moderate sea conditions. (Sometimes surprisingly so.) And vice versa - some who are comfortable in larger sea conditions do not have the most stamina. Be mindful of the variable skills (and hidden weaknesses) of the group as sea conditions change … and be prepared to tow or be towed.

·         If you’re the lead paddler (or in the group at the front) and have stopped to wait for the slower paddlers to catch up, don’t immediately resume paddling when the slower people get there. Give them some time to rest first!

·         When exiting your boat in beach-breaking surf, make sure your kayak is landward of you and the waves. Do no stand with your boat seaward of you, otherwise you risk the boat smashing you in the legs when hit by a wave. MAJORLY important rule for surf landings.

·         Waterproof headlamps do not float – attach them somehow if dealing with waves/surf when night paddling.

·         Boats are heavy – ALWAYS offer to help other paddlers carry a kayak and NEVER feel embarrassed to ask for help lifting/carrying your boat.  Save your back and arms for the paddling.

·         Four (4) people carrying a loaded boat is best when carrying any distance – yes 4. No shame.

·         ALL OTHER watercraft have the right of way – kayaks come last.  Not a written rule necessarily, but essentially true. We are most vulnerable.  Be cautious and aware.

·         When on a crossing/meeting (or collision) course with a motor boat, stop paddling to let him pass in front of you but keep making the paddling motion (move the paddle up and down) simply so the boater is more likely to see you – paddle motion is what others see first, not you and your little boat.

·         Pay attention to fore/aft trim when packing your boat – e.g. put gear up in the bow hatch if your stern sits low to compensate for an off balance center of buoyancy. It noticeably helps handling.

·         Contrary to what some say, your seat position does affect boat handling. Sit a bit further forward (or lean your torso forward) to help turning and edging if your boat seems sluggish or if lee-cocking in big winds. Even an inch or two makes a difference.

·         Swap spare paddles or other deck-mounted gear from the front to the rear deck if your boat is lee-cocking in big winds.

·        To avoid motorboats in areas of marked buoyage, remember the "Red-Right-Returning” rule…BUT do not assume motor boats (planing craft) will stick to marked channels. They have very little draft and OFTEN do not follow the R-R-R rule.

·         Paddlers who bring treats for others at break time (candy?cookies?) are looked upon more favorably by others than those who don’t!

·         Give advice to others humbly. Some paddlers don’t want it. Some are having a perfectly fine time doing it their way. BUT it doesn’t hurt to offer helpful advice if someone is struggling.

- Wind/waves running against current (opposite direction) heightens the waves.  So if you're looking to hit a tide race/overfall at a time most likely to have bigger conditions, get there at time of Max Current on a day when there's some good opposing swell.  (For the NE U.S. this is typically at Max Ebb Current with incoming swell from the east/southeast).

Sterling “Reflection” Kayak Review - Made for the Waves

Had the unique opportunity to paddle the "Reflection" by Sterling Kayaks last weekend. The attraction for me is its light weight – probably 10 lbs lighter than your typical British boat judging by its heft – and its maneuverability.  A boat for short local paddles that's easier to carry are key features for me these days. And something that puts a smile on my face if the waves/wind get big is good too.  After seeing a photo of the Reflection, the thing just looked like a radical departure in terms of shape as compared to other kayaks – so I wanted to try it out.

  

Sterling "Reflection" kayak - Groton, CT

Sterling Kayaks is a U.S. company out of Bellingham, Washington. Recent online videos of sea kayakers paddling the Skookumchuck tide race are well populated by this boat nowadays. Sterling is something of a custom shop, focused on specific designs and light construction. Lacking dealers on the east coast, I happened upon a local kayaker in Connecticut who may own the only Reflection east of the Mississippi!  I joined him and a few paddling friends of his – and he kindly let me paddle his boat while he paddled mine. 

Couple things about the Reflection – the boat is 16 feet long, has HUGE rocker and narrow/tapered ends. (Somewhat reminiscent of Derek Hutchinson's Gultstream/Slipstream kayaks if anyone remembers those, but with more rocker).  The bow and stern exhibit little volume below the waterline - their shape resembles narrow fins for gently engaging the water when the hull hits a wave or is surfing in the trough. To complement the fineness of the bow/stern, the volume of the hull is instead concentrated in the middle by the cockpit – at 23 inches with a rounded chine it pushes back forcefully when edged. A fun responsive feel.  The end result in calm water is a boat that is VERY maneuverable and fun to paddle along the shore, turning this way and that, edging around obstacles, etc.  In addition, the narrowness of the hull's bow/stern (low prismatic coefficient) allows this boat to get up to speed from a stand-still very quickly, which adds to the fun-factor when rock-gardening along the coast.  Of course there’s always a downside to every upside – the top end cruising speed in calm water seemed lower to me in the Reflection compared to more standard-shaped kayaks of similar length, boats which retain more hull volume below the waterline out toward the ends. This is an expected and reasonable trade-off in my opinion.

We had some following seas during my demo paddle – but nothing big to really show how the Reflection’s rocker and wide mid-section might dance and carve on a wave.  WAVES and SURF are certainly what the boat is made for.  I expect it would be exceptional as a park-and-play boat on a big standing wave or messing about in some long-wavelength shore break. Despite the narrowness of the ends below the waterline, the boat has a large amount of reserve buoyancy above the waterline. From the photos you can see the bulbous fore and aft decks that rise higher than the cockpit rim, somewhat like a whitewater creeking boat.  Am sure this buoyancy keeps it lively and maneuverable, resisting burying in a wave.  Unfortunately, most of these thoughts have to be conjecture since it was a mild November day in Connecticut when I tested the boat – but looking at west-coast videos of the boat in conditions gives you a sense how the fat mid-section, big rocker, and tapered hull make for a fun surfing machine. It seems to have a definite edge in the surfing department judging by this remarkable video of a coastal surfing competition showing the Reflection carving on wave faces (changing direction left and right like a surf kayak), spinning to paddle in reverse on the crests, even rising back up the wave to the sweet spot after it’s been down in the trough! All things that are tough to do in most sea kayaks in shore-breaking surf (paddler power and skill undoubtedly have a lot to do with the moves in this video, but you get the idea). See Video - note especially the guy in the lime green boat at 4:37 - wow: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkO3Rsdi3dE

Fit/Finish:  The Reflection has a comfy keyhole cockpit, foam seat, and flat/lowish thigh braces – perfect for the snug responsiveness you’d want for a surf session.  This setup was OK for a regular day-trip (going from A to B), but I might prefer higher thigh braces for a somewhat looser cockpit feel if I was using the Reflection as my do-everything kayak. Distance paddling is not what this boat is made for so that trade-off is understood.  The skeg is located ODDLY directly behind the cockpit, taking up one side of the day-hatch compartment.  Deploying the skeg was smooth and flawless. The effect on the boat when fully deployed was quite mild – owing to its location. It did help some to fight weather cocking, but not nearly as much as a standard skeg.  Regardless, the boat’s maneuverability and stiff secondary stability makes edging the boat to fight weather cocking easy and effective. Am not entirely sure what affect the skeg would have on the face of a wave – certainly it would retain most of its turning ability.  The design, paint job, and finish on the boat are very cool – really looks like a custom kayak and not one off an assembly line as some boats do. 




Sterling Reflection cockpit

That’s it – something to consider if you’re in the market for a rough water kayak. Although more of a specialized craft than some, it was fun to paddle in mild conditions too.

Sterling Reflection kayak Groton CT

Sea Kayak Spray Skirts – Review of Snapdragon’s Glacier Trek Breathable

Counting them up, I realize I’ve owned ten (10) spray skirts from various manufactures over the years  - from BushSport, Mountain Surf, Seals, Snapdragon, and Reed.  Most have been the full-neoprene kind, which are touted as the most water-tight for rough sea conditions.  When I’ve sold my kayaks, I’ve tended to “sweeten the deal” by including a sprayskirt, so have kept only a few.  Recently I wanted a skirt that was more comfortable for mellow conditions – so my latest is a touring spray skirt with a neoprene deck and Goretex tunnel made by Snapdragon.  Turns out it’s a great all-around spray skirt and well worth a closer look by all sea kayakers.

Snapdragon Glacier Trek Sprayskirt - and others to compare

 

My earliest spray skirt was a nylon “summer” conditions one that came with the first sea kayak I bought. It had a comfortable, adjustable Velcro collar –but leaked like a sieve.  So, in short order I switched to full-neoprene – and never looked back.  BushSport was my first. It lasted a decade but took a beating over the years – mostly from dragging boats over the deck during rescues. I bought Snapdragon’s full-neoprene skirts for my next two boats and was glad I made the change. The Snapdragon skirts are easier to attach to the cockpit than other skirts because of the more stretchy “Supratrex” neoprene fabric used for the deck material.  Bill and Janice Lozano of Atlantic Kayak Tours were early fans of Snapdragon who can take the credit for turning a lot of sea kayakers on to this brand.

 

Snapdragon Glacier Trek Breathable (4 Stars):

The reason I decided to go back to a non-neoprene tunnel when purchasing Snapdragon's Glacier Trek was to eliminate some of the guess work involved in picking the proper tunnel size (and to accommodate the size of my mid-section which seems to vary in response to seasonal changes in diet….).  I also wanted something that would be more comfortable in calm conditions. Like most of their sea kayak line of skirts, Snapdragon’s Glacier Trek has the Suptratex Neoprene deck so is easy to attach to the coaming. And despite the Goretex/Velcro tunnel, I find it is as water tight as a full-neoprene tunnel when you synch it down.  Plus you can loosen it on flat water which adds noticeably to comfort and torso rotation. I got a size bigger than my waist (I think the biggest they make) to make it super loose when I want to. Then I synch the Velcro and fold the fabric a bit to get a tight seal.  To date this is my favorite spray skirt.

 

Reed Aquatherm (4 Stars):

After attending a UK kayaking event, I purchased the first of my Reed Spray Skirts.  I think every kayaker should own a Reed skirt if they can at some point – especially if they have a kayak with the smaller “ocean” cockpit (Greenland cockpit). The Reed skirts are made with a thin, stretchy, rubberized fabric (Aquatherm) and thinner bungee that is super easy to take on and off.  The ocean cockpit version is especially easy to put on because it has a single strand of thin bungee versus the keyhole’s double-strand.  The Reed skirts are comfortable, durable, easy to pack, and dry more quickly than neoprene. After many years of use I found my Reed skirts to be as durable as the thicker neoprene. Plus Reed will send you some fabric repair tape which easily fixes holes or wear spots and retains flexibility (unlike AquaSeal repair glue which does not stretch once dried).

Seals (3 stars):

I purchased a custom-made skirt from Seals for a surf boat I owned.  It works fine – the best feature to me is the added strap/buckle on the grab loop so you can easily clip it to a line for drying, a nice feature.  Seals is a New York-based company and has good customer support I’ve found.  Many whitewater paddlers prefer their whitewater-specific spray skirts, which have a thick rubber rand and fit well on plastic boats.  However, for sea kayaking my preference has been for the Snapdragon skirts, which seem a little more durable to me and the stretchy Supratrex neoprene is a nice feature.